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公务员事务局法定语文事务部
公務員事務局法定語文事務部
OFFICIALLANGUAGESDIVISION,CIVILSERVICEBUREAU
文訊
WORDPOWER
第七十四期二零一八年十二月IssueNo.74December2018
一方水土養一方人
十一月下旬，北京馬路旁梧桐樹的葉子變黃了，在柔和的陽光下，隨風輕輕搖動，瑟瑟作響。
在街上漫步，黃葉飄落到肩上、腳旁，讓人想起王昌齡《長信怨》的詩句：
“金井梧桐秋葉黃，珠簾不捲夜來霜。
”這裏還是一片秋去冬來的景象，東北的哈爾濱、黑龍江等地卻已是白雪皚皚，到處彌漫着混沌的冷霧。
過了長江，便是江南。
江南的冬天總是姍姍來遲，雖然沒有北方那麼冷，但常常下微雨，刮起風時，又冷又濕，同樣教人難熬。
在陰寒的冬日裏，蘇杭一帶的人整天埋怨身上的衣服潮乎乎，冷得人直打哆嗦。
到了盛夏，江南名城又熱得像火爐一樣。
北京、東北城市的夏天雖然也是驕陽似火，但烈日炎炎的日子沒有江南的那麼長。
一方水土養一方人，南方人和北方人順應氣候，各自發展出獨特的生活和文化。
在南方人眼裏，東北是個會凍掉人耳朵的地方。
此話雖有點誇張，但東北冷起來真的不是開玩笑，就算是北京人都害怕。
北京房子的窗大都只是鑲了一層玻璃，但在東北三省，建築物窗戶的玻璃都是兩三層的，室內還有火炕保暖。
南方氣候炎熱，房子不用那麼耐寒，大多牆壁高，前後門貫通，便於通風換氣。
到了冬天，東北會下雪，雪花又大又白，飄起來紛紛揚揚。
這時，江河都結冰了，人們穿上厚厚的衣服，在冰上迴旋飛舞。
有些人還會在冰上刨出一個大窟窿，光着身子跳進水裏，開始一年一度的冬泳。
北京很少下雪，但湖泊也會結冰。
十二月下旬，北海公園擠滿滑冰高手。
不懂滑冰的人也會來湊熱鬧，坐在小小的冰車上用棍子抵着冰面，推動車身前進，雖沒有什麼花式動作，但在湖面滑來滑去，也挺好玩的。
湖上滑冰沒有江南人的份兒。
然而，他們也有自己的冬日情趣。
江浙一帶的人冬天會到郊外散步，碰上細雨濛濛的日子，會撐一把傘，沿着田隴的阡陌信步而行，偶爾停下來欣賞淡如水墨的遠山風景，這份閒情是在冰天雪地生活的人無法享受的。
到了初夏，江南又有另一番景致。
杭州人愛遊西湖。
麗日當空，他們佇立在湖畔的垂柳下，讓南風輕撫臉龐，看芙蓉在水中蕩漾，這就是古詩《對蓮》所描述“古柳垂堤風淡淡，新荷漫沼葉田田”的情景。
還有，寒天也好，熱天也好，錢塘江的澎湃潮聲不斷敲打江南人的耳鼓，不少北方人遠道而來，就是為了一嘗聽潮之樂。
東北的冬天漫長，土地長期覆蓋着霜雪，能種的蔬菜很少，主要是土豆、蘿蔔和大白菜。
巧婦難為無米之炊，東北人在吃方面沒那麼講究。
他們喜歡燉菜，什麼都燉，土豆燉茄子、白菜燉豆腐，配上酸菜、饅頭和肉，這就是東北人的家常便飯。
“靠山吃山，靠水吃水”，江南土地肥沃，是魚米之鄉，菜式自然細緻多樣。
無錫排骨甜中帶鹹，杭州叫化雞肉嫩味美，揚州蟹粉獅子頭肥而不膩，名菜數之不盡。
跟東北菜不同，江南烹調除了燉，還有蒸、燒、炒等，變化多端。
沒有去過東北的人，很多都以為在風寒雪深之地生活的人必定冷漠如冰。
事實可不是這樣，在這片冬季漫長的大地上到處充滿人情。
東北人，特別是農村人十分樸實，鄉土情誼深濃。
他們熱情爽朗，待人處事實實在在，偶有客人過訪，無不倒屣相迎。
江南人也同樣好客，但比較講求禮數，沒有東北人那麼率性。
江南是靈秀之地，春花秋月、小橋流水讓人培養出感情豐富細膩的性格。
多年來，這裏孕育了許多文人墨客，王羲之、李白、蘇軾、李清照便是佼佼者。
江南物產富庶，繁榮昌盛，人民生活多姿多彩。
這塊寶地四季分明，風光綺麗，難怪唐代文人白居易說：
“江南好，風景舊曾諳。
日出江花紅勝火，春來江水綠如藍，能不憶江南？
”東北沒有江南那麼好山好水，而且冬長夏短，但在數九季節，一家人躲在屋裏，圍着火爐，邊吃邊聊，哪怕門外大雪紛飛，室內卻溫暖如春。
其實不論南北，一家人共聚一堂，樂也融融，外面天氣是冷是暖，也不太重要了。
CulturalArena
TheColdestCityonEarth
Whenwillyousaytheweatherischilly?
FormostpeopleinHongKong,theywillcomplain“it’sfreezingcold”whenthemercurydropsto10°C.ButinYakutsk,“chilly”means-50°C.Withtemperatureshoveringaround-40°Cinthewintermonths,theRussiancity,locatedtotheeastofSiberia,isconsideredbymanyasthecoldestcityintheworld.
ThereisoneruleforthosewhovisitYakutskinwinter:
don’tstayoutdoorsformorethan15minutesevenyouhavebundledup.Thisisnobluff.Coldaircaneasilypenetrateevenyourdouble-layeredthermalglovesandsocks,andnumbyourfingersandtoesinaninstant.Justafive-minutewalktoacornerstorecouldbringyoufrostbite.Whenventuringoutinthecold,youarenotadvisedtowearglasses.At-40°Corso,themetalstickstoyourcheeks,andyouwillfindithardtotakeyourglassesoff.
Shroudediniceandfog,Yakutsk,hometoover250000people,isacityofotherworldlybeauty.Againstahazywhitebackdrop,fur-cladlocals,likesnowangels,areoftenseenscurryingacrossstreets.Duringtheholidayseason,beautifullyadornedChristmastreesshimmerwithanarrayoflightsamidstsnowflakesinpublicsquares.Tohavearareandbriefmomentofboisterousjoyoutdoors,theYakutshuddletogetherinfrontofthetrees,nexttosnow-cappedbronzestatuesoflegendaryfigures,whichstandsolemnlyinthedark,completelyunfetteredbythecold.
Yakutsk’scoldweather—evenbySiberianstandards—makesthecityanaturalfreezer.Thereisnoproblemwithkeepingfoodfrozeninanopenarea.Atroad-sidemarkets,fisharenicelybundledandarrangedonwoodenrackslikebouquetsofflowerssprinkledwithsnow.GrowingcropsisaforlornhopeinYakutskastheentirecitystandsonhardfrozenground.Fishandreindeermeat,oftenservedraw,arethemainstaplesofYakuts.Dairyproductsarealsowidelyconsumed.Salamat,acreamysourporridgemadeofwheatandbutter,isusuallyeatenonfeastdays.
Farawayfromothersettlements,Yakutskisasecludedworld.Insummer,whenLenaRiverthaws,peoplecantakealongboatridetogetthere.Butformostoftheyear,theSiberiancityisconnectedtotheoutsideworldbyplane,oraroadscarilyknownasthe“RoadofBones.”Thisroadwasbuiltinthe1930sbyinmatesfromlabourcamps.Manyforcedlabourersdiedduringtheconstruction,andtheirskeletonsmadeuppartofthefoundations.Intheeyesofmany,lifeinYakutskismiserableandgloomy.Anoldpoemhasitthat:
“Fearingthewinters/Endlessandicy/Nobodywillvisit/Thiswretchedcountry/Thisvastprisonhouseforexiles.”
Yet,Yakutskisn’tasbackwardasmostpeoplethink.Witharichendowmentofdiamondsandgold,thesnowkingdommaintainsavibranteconomy.Also,therearemyriadlakesandriversintheregion.Localfolkloregoesthatthegodofcreationflewaroundtheworldtodoleoutrichesandnaturalresources.WhenhecametotheregionnearYakutsk,hisfingersgrewnumbandhejustthreweverythingaway.Andthat’swhyYakutskisablessedland,despiteitsextremeweather.
Beinglongusedtothefrigidtemperatures,Yakutsseldomgrumbleabouttheclimate.Perhapstheonlyinconvenienceisthattheyhavetoleavetheircarenginesrunningforhourstofightagainstpartsfreezingover;gasesfromexhaustpipesmaketheairfoggierandcloudier.Otherwisetheygoabouttheirbusinesseveryday.Schoolsareclosedonlywhenitisbelow-55°C.Whenthethermometerhits-20°C,theyshouthappily,“It’sacosy,warmday.”Thenwithsleevesrolledup,theygatherinparksandthemarketplace,chattingaspleasantlyasifinwarmspring.Whatistheirsecrettoenduringthecold?
“Afewshotsofrusskichai—literallyRussiantea,whichisactuallyvodka—cankeepuswarmandenergeticwholeday,”theyreply.
Whenitcomestowhattowear,Yakutsdon’thavemuchchoice.Fur,fur,fur.Inthecity,almostwithoutexception,peoplearedressedinanimalhidesfromheadtotoe.Itisnotuncommontoseewomenwearingrabbitfurcoats,stylishhead-hugginghatsofArcticfoxandtrendyreindeerboots.Animallovers’eyeswillpopoutoftheirheadswhentheyarethere.Butclothingethicalissuesaren’tthelocals’concern.Survivalis.
Yakutslovetheircity,theircultureandtheiricysurroundings.Thecoldweatherbarelyregistersintheirminds.Astheyalwayssay,thebitterwinterisperhapslikethelongworkweekandthesummerthebriefweekend.Whenaskediftheywanttolivesomewhereelse,mostofthemproudlyreply,“No.It’scoldhereandtheconditionsareharsh,butwearefine.”
Hotheadsandcoldheartsneversolvedanything.
BillyGraham
AColdNightandaWarmTrain
ItwasJanuary2018,andanunprecedentedcoldspellhadhitNewYork.IntheweehoursofaSunday,scoresofhomelesspeople,mostlywearingexpressionlessfaces,boardedtheEtrain,whichpliesbetweentheJamaicaCentreinQueensandtheWorldTradeCentreinManhattan.Transformingtheirbackpacksintopillows,theystretchedacrosstheseatsandburiedthemselvesbeneathfilthyblankets,worn-outsuitcasesbytheirsides.Theyhoppedonthetrainwithahumblewishtohaveanight’sundisturbedsleep.
Itwaswarminside.Theroughsleeperssoonsankintoanexhaustedslumber.Amanwassnoozingnearapizzabox,andanotheroneclutchedabagofdiscardedcanswhiledozingoff.Snoringsoundswerefaintlyaudibleamidstthedroneofthetrain.Amiddle-agedmantookoffhissoakedshoestodryhissocks.Whenseeingjournalistswhoweretheretocoverastoryofthehomeless,heaskedinatiredvoice,“Heretohelpus?
”
Accordingtoasurveyconductedin2017,thenumberofroughsleepersaroundNewYorkCityhitanewrecord,closeto4000,analarmingincreaseof40%overthepreviousyear.Duringsharp,frostynights,theydescendintothesubway,whichisopenandheatedaroundtheclock.TheEtrains,inparticular,areahavenforthedestitutebecausetheyrunundergroundfortheirentireride,shieldingthepassengersfromthecold.Whentemperaturesarelow,policeofficersandoutreachworkersgatherattheendpointsofthesubwaylinestoseeifthelessfortunateneedhelp.Butitisadauntingtaskasmostofthemdeclinewhatevertheofficerspropose.
Asthenightwenton,moreandmorestreetsleepersgotontheEtrain.Charityworkersinorangeparkaspacedthroughthecarsandfoundthatonlyveryfewoftheunhousedriderswereappropriatelydressedforthecoldweather.Withoutanywarmgeartowear,oneofthemwrappeduphislegswithgarbagebags.Inonecar,apale-facedmanbentover,shiveringinawheelchairwedgedintoacorner.Whenaskedifheneededmedicalattention,heresponded,“I’mgood.I’mgood.”Inanothercar,therewasamanbundledupinbedsheets,withhisbare,callousedfeetexposedintermittently.
Iftherewasachoice,noonewouldliketosleepontrains.Intheinterviewswiththeunhousedridersonthetrain,onesadstoryunfoldedafteranother.Ayoungwomanbecamehomelessaftershewaskickedoutbyhermotheryearsago.Althoughshehadfinishedsomecollegecourses,shewasunabletolandherselfajob.Frustratedandhopeless,sheplungedintosuicidaldepression.“It’sthefirsttimeI’vesleptonatrain.Iftheweatheriswarmer,Iusuallysleeponthestreets,intunnelsandsometimesunderbridges.Buttonight,it’ssocoldoutthere,”shesaid.
Athirty-somethingmusicianwasamongtheridersonthetrain.Havingbeenvictimisedbyschizophreniasinceyoungadulthood,hespendsmostofhisdaysinPennsylvaniaStation,playinggospelmusic.Onunbearablywintrynights,theEtrainsarehisshelter.“It’smuchsaferandwarmertosleephere.Alotofotherlinespassthroughbadneighbourhoods,”hesaid,“andpeoplesnatchyourstuffawaywhileyou’resleeping.”
ForthestreetsleepersinNewYorkCity,thecultureoneachtrainlineisdifferent.WhilethementallyillpreferbeddingdownontheE,alcoholicsanddrugaddictsoptforlongerlinesbecausetheyarelessconsciousoftheweather,andalongerhaulpromisesalongersleep.Thismobilepopulationhasannoyedanumberofcommuterswhogrumble
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