Textile Art in White and Blue.docx

Textile Art in White and Blue.docx

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TextileArtinWhiteandBlue

TextileArtinWhiteandBlue

　　BLUEcalico，akindofhome-madefabriccol-oredbyplantdyes，iscommonlyseeninChinesepeople’sdailylife，inparticularinSouthChina.Clothes，bedspreads，quiltcovers，scarves，handkerchiefs，doorcurtains，orevenwrappers，madeoftheplainandelegantblue-and-whitefabric，canbeseenalmosteverywhere.Theclothincorporatesacreativearrayofpatternsthatresonatewithpeople’saesthetictastes.

　　NantongBlueCalico

　　LocatedinthealluvialplainoftheYangtzeRiverDelta，Nantong，inEastChina’sJiangsuProvinceisaperfectplaceforacottonplantation.Backinthe14thcentury，aslocaltextiletechnologydevelopedandbecamepopularized，almosteveryhouseholdinNantonghadwoodenspinningwheelsandlooms，whichhelpedshapethelocationintoafamoustextilebase.

　　Asthelegendgoes，anaccidentledtothebirthofbluecalico：

Oneday，whilelocalpeopleweredryingcottonclothintheopenair，agustofwindblewsomepiecesontoastackoftheindigoferaplant.Whenpeoplefoundthem，theyhadbeenstainedwithblueblotchesandlookedunexpectedlylovely.Itwasafterthisthattheindigodyeingprocessbegan.

　　Withriverscrossingthecity，theareasurroundingNantonghasbeenendowedwithawarmandhumidclimate，verysuitableforthegrowthofindigofera.Withtheinventionofthedyeingmethod，coupledwiththepopularizationoftextiles，thelocaldyeingandweavingindustryboomed.WhenitcametoMing（1368-1644）andQing（1644-1911）dynasties，thoseworkshopsspecializinginweavinganddyeingbluecalicoclusteredtogethertoformasizablemar-ket.Thelocalprintinganddyeingcraftsmanshipalsospreadnationwide.

　　Nantongbluecalicocanbedividedintotwocategories：

bluebackgroundwithwhitepatternsandwhitebackgroundwithbluepatterns.

　　Selectionofgreigeclothisthefirststepneededtoproducebluecalico.Usuallyfirst-gradegreigeisfavored.Therequiredpatternisusuallyengravedinapatternboard，whichismadeoftwoorthreelayersofkraftpaperboundtogether.Aftertheengravingisdone，bothsidesoftheboardarebrushedwithboiledtungoilanddried.Oncethisprocessisrepeatedtwoorthreetimes，theboardcanbeflattened，readyforuse.Theboardcanbeusedrepeatedly.Indesigningthecalicopattern，thedesignershouldtakeintoaccountbothdurationoftheboardandfeaturesofthepattern.Usuallyinaboldandexaggeratedway，roughandvigorouspatternsarecreated，stirringpeople’simagination，leavinganevidentmarkofanancientart.　　Thenextstepisstarching.First，thepatternboardisplacedonthegreigecloth，followedbyaspreadofthedye-resistantagent，amixtureofsoybeanpowderandpulverizedlime.Alongthehollowedpartsofthepatternboard，thedye-resistantmixturewouldseepthroughtothegreigecloth，thusformingaprotectivelayeroncertainpartsofthecloth.Ittakestwodaysforthegreigeclothcoveredwiththedye-resistantprotectivelayertodry.Itwouldthenbeputintothecoloringagentmadewiththeindigoferajuice.Thepartswithouttheprotectivelayeraredyedblue，leavingtheotherareaswhite.

　　Thedyeisstoredinalargevat，whichcanbeusedforgenerations.Thecoloringeffectisdeterminedbythequalityofdye，whichmakesthedyeacorepartofadyehouse.Theguardianofthedyevatisusuallythemostrespectedpersoninadyehouse，asheorsheistheonlypersonwhoknowstherecipeforthedye.

　　Oncethedyedclothisdry，thedye-resistantprotectioncovercanberemoved.Thewholeprocessisallcompletedmanually.Thelengthofabluecalicoclothislimitedtobelow12meters.Thesightoftheclothsflutteringinthebreezedryingonseven-meterhighracksisquitespectacular.

　　Thesereneblueandpurewhiteformadazzlingarrayofauspiciouspatternsonthecloths.In2006，theNantongbluecalicodyeingandprintingtech-niquewasincludedintoChina’snationalintangibleculturalheritagelist.

　　GuizhouBatik

　　Guizhoubatik，wax-resistantdyeingofcloth，canbetracedbacktoover2，000yearsago.Itstandsoutwithuniquecolor，simpleandelegantpatterns，andrichculturalconnotationsamongallformsoffolkartinGuizhouProvince.

　　Therearesomeincongruousconjecturesabouttheoriginandevolvementofbatik.Nonetheless，batikisadistinctivetextiletechniqueinGuizhou，andprevalentinethnicminorityareaswithsuchinhabitantslikeMiao，Bouyei，andShuipeople.

　　Inthoseareas，delicateorroughbatikworkscanbefoundinpeople’sclothes，accessoriesorevensomesmalldailyusearticleslikehandkerchiefs.Guidedbytheirmothersorseniorfemalefamilymembers，localgirlsbeginlearninghowtomakeflowerpatternsattheyoungageofsixorseven.Whentheyreachtheirteens，theyhavealreadymasteredtheskillofmakingexquisitepatterns.Thentheybegintopreparetheirdowries，includingsetsofbatikgarmentsandarticlesofdailyuse.Amongthese，somesmallbatikdecorationsmaybetakenasatokenoflove.Itusuallytakesagirlfivetosixyearstoprepareherdowry.Themoreabundantthedowry，themoreadmiredthegirlwillbe.Thus，shewillhavemoreadvantagesinfindingherlovedone.

　　Dependingontheethnicgrouporthebranchofanethnicgroup，thepartsofadresswithbatikdecorationdiffer：

Itmayappearonthetop，theskirt，orevencoverthewholedress.Somegroupsonlyhavebatikdecorationontheirheadadornmentsorbelts.Usuallythetraditionoftheirethnicgroupprescribesthespecificpartsoftheirdressorapparelitemsthatneedbatikadornment，whichcan’tbechangedrandomly.

　　TheGuizhoubatikproductionprocessissimilartothatofHanpeople’straditionaldyeingandprinting.Thedifferenceliesintheuseofbeeswaxasthedye-resistantagent，whichmakesbatikpatternsmorediversifiedandflexible.Besidestheuseoftraditionalpatterns，themakercanalsocreatenewonestoshowtheirlikingsandaestheticpreference.Moreover，withoutalimitforclothwidth，inlightofitsexpectedpurpose，differentclothwidthscanbeusedwithsuitablepatternsappliedinrelationtothewearer’sage，personality，andpreference.Inaddition，thewaxlayercanbeappliedtwicetothedyedclothpiece，inordertodiversifythecolorblue，givingitdifferenthues.

　　Peopledrawpatternswithacopperpendippedinmeltedbeeswax.Aftercooling，thewaxcovermayhavecracksinthedyeingprocesscausedbyincessantlyrollingandturningthefabricpiece.Thedyeseepsintothewhitegreigeclothalongthecracks，thuscreatingtherandomly-formedpattern，calledcrackpattern，whichresemblethecracksinporcelainglaze.Therefore，evenifforthesamedesign，inthedyeingprocess，differentcrackpatternscanbegenerated.

　　TheindigoferaplantisthemajordyeingmaterialfortraditionalGuizhoubatik.Withit，clothcanbedyedinaquitelowtemperature，andthebatikalsohasgoodoffastness，whichgivesthisplantanadvantageagainstothervegetabledyesthatcanonlydyefabricatahightemperature，orriskfading.However，athightemperatures，beeswaxwouldmelt，unabletomaintaintheoriginalpatterns，whichmadedyeinginothercolorsimpossibleinancienttimes.Modernwaxdyeingtechniqueshavemadeafullrangeofcolorspossible.

　　Asafolkart，GuizhoubatikhasbeenanindispensablepartofethnicculturalactivitiesinGuizhou，includingfestivals，weddings，funerals，andreligiousactivities.Thebatikproductionactivitiesarecloselyassociatedwiththelocalethnicculturalbackgroundandlivingenvironment，whichhasmadeitauniquevisuallanguagethattellslocals’cultural，religious，andhistoricalstoriestotheoutsideworld.In2006，GuizhoubatikwasincludedinChina’snationalintangibleculturalheritages.　　Tie-DyeingofBaiEthnicGroup

　　Tie-dyeing，alsoknownasplangiorbandhnu，isanancientdyeingskill.DaliinsouthwestChina’sYunnanProvinceisthecentralplaceoforiginfortextileproductsfeaturingthisdyeingtechnique，andpeopleofthelocalBaiethnicgrouparetheirmajorproducers，earningtheprocessanameDalitie-dyeing，orBaitie-dyeing.Mostfamousforthedyeingcraftsmanship，ZhouchenginDaliwasnamedastheTownofEthnicTie-DyeingbythethenMinistryofCulture.

　　Evidenceshowsthattie-dyeingoriginatedintheYellowRiverbasin.Aroundthefourthcenturyasthedyeingcraftbecamemature，productionincreased.Apartfromsimplepatternsonsomepartsofafabricpiece，afullsetofpatternscoveringawholepieceoffabriccouldalsobeseenintie-dyedworksproducedduringthisperiod，whichwerewidelyusedinwomen’sdresses.WhenitcametotheTangDynasty（618-907），thetie-dyedtextileproductsbecameevenmorepopular.Inparticular，theworkswithexquisiteflowerpatternspopularinthepalaceweretrendsetters.AttheheightoftheTangDynasty，thetiedyeingtechniquealsospreadtoneighboringcountriesincludingJapan，fromwhichthedyeingcraftwasbroughttoChina’sYunnanProvince.Theancientdyeingcraftthentookroottherethankstoabundantwaterresourcesandafavorableclimate，whichsupportedavarietyofblue-dyeplants.Afterthe14thcenturyastheBaidyeingcraftinDalidevelopedtoitsfullpotential，thelocaldyeingguildcameintobeing，andlocaltie-dyedproductsearnedagreatreputation.Intheearly20thcentury，tie-dyeingbecameahouseholdcraft.PlacesrepresentedbyZhoucheng，renownedforitshighdensityofhouseholdtie-dyeingworkshops，becamecentersoftheancienttie-dyeingcraft.

　　Whitecottonclothandramiecottonfabricistakenasthematerialfortie-dyeingwithitsbluedyecomingfromplantssuchasindigofera，woadroot