第五讲戏曲服装蟒.docx

第五讲戏曲服装蟒.docx

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第五讲戏曲服装蟒

第五讲戏曲服装蟒

第五讲戏曲服装

脚色所穿戴的服装又称“行头”。

现在戏曲舞台上的服装基本上是以明代服装为基础，又吸收其他民族服装的特点形成的。

一，特点:

1，程式性:

不同行当的脚色在穿戴上有严格的规定，以表现人物的身份、地位、年龄和性格等等，不能随意变换。

戏曲界有一句行话:

“宁穿破，不穿错”，讲的就是对服装的严格规定。

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2，虚拟性:

不受时代、季节、地域的限制。

3，追求美

色彩:

黄、红、绿、白、

黑、紫、蓝、粉等;

图案:

龙、凤、鸟、兽、鱼、虫、花、

草、水、云

“八宝”（宝珠、方胜、玉磬、犀角、古钱、珊瑚、银锭、如意等）

“八吉祥”（指花、罐、鱼、肠、轮、螺、伞、盖八种饰有风带的吉祥物，又称佛家八宝）

质材:

缎、绸、布等

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二，服装的作用:

1，有助于刻画人物形象;

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ofthereformofdistributionsystem,linkedtotheimplementationofgoals,tasks,benefits,payrollmanagementbyobjectivesapproach,effectivelymobilizedtheenthusiasmofthestaff.Meanwhile,strengthenedcostmanagement,focusonstaffTraining,employeeskills,servicequalityhasbeensignificantlyimproved,saving

ofthereformofdistributionsystem,linkedtotheimplementationofgoals,tasks,benefits,payrollmanagementbyobjectivesapproach,effectivelymobilizedtheenthusiasmofthestaff.Meanwhile,strengthenedcostmanagement,focusonstaffTraining,employeeskills,servicequalityhasbeensignificantlyimproved,saving

ofthereformofdistributionsystem,linkedtotheimplementationofgoals,tasks,benefits,payrollmanagementbyobjectivesapproach,effectivelymobilizedtheenthusiasmofthestaff.Meanwhile,strengthenedcostmanagement,focusonstaffTraining,employeeskills,servicequalityhasbeensignificantlyimproved,saving

2，有助于烘托情绪、气氛;

3，有助于创造美的艺术境界;

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三，服装分类:

以京剧为例

蟒、靠、帔、褶、衣等五类:

蟒，又称蟒袍

溯源:

源于明代的“蟒衣”，在蟒衣基础上加工美化后形成的蟒袍，保留了蟒衣的基本形状和穿用范围。

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ofthereformofdistributionsystem,linkedtotheimplementationofgoals,tasks,benefits,payrollmanagementbyobjectivesapproach,effectivelymobilizedtheenthusiasmofthestaff.Meanwhile,strengthenedcostmanagement,focusonstaffTraining,employeeskills,servicequalityhasbeensignificantlyimproved,saving

款式:

齐肩圆领，大襟（右衽），阔袖（带水袖），袍长及足，周身以金或银线及彩色绒线刺绣艺术纹样。

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纹样:

主要是龙及“蟒水”（海水江牙），陪衬纹样为日、山，流云、“八宝”、“八吉样”等。

“蟒水”的具体形状，有弯立水、直立水、立卧三江水、立卧五江水、全卧水五种。

色彩:

主要使用十种纯色，分为"上五色"（正色）和"下五色"（副色）。

上五色指红、绿、黄、白、黑，下五色指紫、粉（红）、蓝、湖、香。

皇帝穿正黄色，太子、亲王等穿杏黄色，侯爵穿红色，此外还有蓝色、紫色、绿色、黑色的。

服装的基色，除身份、地位，和人物的性格，脸色也ofthereformofdistributionsystem,linkedtotheimplementationofgoals,tasks,benefits,payrollmanagementbyobjectivesapproach,effectivelymobilizedtheenthusiasmofthestaff.Meanwhile,strengthenedcostmanagement,focusonstaffTraining,employeeskills,servicequalityhasbeensignificantlyimproved,saving

有关系:

如正直的人常穿红色或绿色。

粗鲁的人或奸猾的人，则穿黑色:

像《霸王别姬》的项羽，《宇宙峰》中的赵高都穿黑蟒。

前者表现他的性情粗豪，后者表现他的阴险奸猾。

女蟒，扮演皇后、公主、将相的夫人时穿。

样式与男蟒相同，图案用飞凤、团凤。

但尺寸稍短，只过膝盖，上身加“云肩”，下面系裙。

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