第五讲戏曲服装蟒.docx

1、第五讲戏曲服装蟒第五讲 戏曲服装蟒第五讲 戏曲服装 脚色所穿戴的服装又称“行头”。 现在戏曲舞台上的服装基本上是以明代服装为基础，又吸收其他民族服装的特点形成的。 一，特点: 1， 程式性: 不同行当的脚色在穿戴上有严格的规定，以表现人物的身份、地位、年龄和性格等等，不能随意变换。戏曲界有一句行话:“宁穿破，不穿错”，讲的就是对服装的严格规定。 of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives

2、 approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 2， 虚拟性: 不受时代、季节、地域的限制。 3，追求美 色彩:黄、红、绿、白、 黑、紫、蓝、粉等; 图案:龙、凤、鸟、兽、鱼、虫、花、 草、水、云 “八宝”(宝珠、方胜、玉磬、犀角、古钱、珊瑚、银锭

3、、如意等) “八吉祥”(指花、罐、鱼、肠、轮、螺、伞、盖八种饰有风带的吉祥物，又称佛家八宝) 质材:缎、绸、布等 of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staff

4、Training, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 二，服装的作用: 1， 有助于刻画人物形象; of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwh

5、ile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthu

6、siasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effec

7、tively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by

8、objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 2， 有助于烘托情绪、气氛; 3，有助于创造美的艺术境界; of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implemen

9、tation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 三，服装分类:以京剧为例 蟒、靠、帔、褶、衣等五类: 蟒，又称蟒袍

10、溯源:源于明代的“蟒衣”，在蟒衣基础上加工美化后形成的蟒袍，保留了蟒衣的基本形状和穿用范围。 of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining,

11、employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management

12、, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, st

13、rengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 款式:齐肩圆领，大襟(右衽)，阔袖(带水袖)，袍长及足，周身以金或银线及彩色绒线刺绣艺术纹样。 of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives

14、approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Meanwhile, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 纹样:主要是龙及“蟒水”(海水江牙)，陪衬纹样为日、山，流云、“八宝”、“八吉样”等。“蟒水”的具体形状，有弯立水、直立水、立卧三江水、立卧五江水、全卧水五种。 色彩:主要使用十种纯色，分为上五色(正色

15、)和下五色(副色)。 上五色指红、绿、黄、白、黑， 下五色指紫、粉(红)、蓝、湖、香。 皇帝穿正黄色，太子、亲王等穿杏黄色，侯爵穿红色，此外还有蓝色、紫色、绿色、黑色的。服装的基色，除身份、地位，和人物的性格，脸色也of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objectives approach, effectively mobilized the enthusiasm of the staff. Mean

16、while, strengthened cost management, focus on staffTraining, employee skills, service quality has been significantly improved, saving 有关系:如正直的人常穿红色或绿色。粗鲁的人或奸猾的人，则穿黑色:像霸王别姬的项羽，宇宙峰中的赵高都穿黑蟒。前者表现他的性情粗豪，后者表现他的阴险奸猾。 女蟒，扮演皇后、公主、将相的夫人时穿。样式与男蟒相同，图案用飞凤、团凤。但尺寸稍短，只过膝盖，上身加“云肩”，下面系裙。 of the reform of distribution system, linked to the implementation of goals, tasks, benefits, payroll management by objective