针织机针距与路数的关系.docx

针织机针距与路数的关系.docx

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针织机针距与路数的关系

针织机针距与路数的关系针织机针距与路数的关系　中国大陆称为机号﹐实际为针床（横机）或针筒圆周（圆筒机）上所切割之针沟数目﹐亦即针距数愈大﹐植入之针数愈多﹐相反愈少。

机号与针数只是一个量度单位﹐其表示方式为针床或针筒圆周上规定之长度内具有织针数量﹐一般以1英寸内计﹐全成形平织机以1.5寸内计。

正确定义可参考以中国国家标准﹐纺织机械中针织机术语定义﹕针距t﹕在同一针床上相邻两针中心线之间的距离﹐用毫米值表示。

机号E﹕每25.4mm间的针距数。

在单独表示机号时﹐应由符号E和相应数字组成﹐如针距1.414mm的机号﹐应写成E18﹐即18针机。

对针织圆机﹐实际值偏差±2%﹐提花装置织机偏差可超过±2%。

针距测量﹕1﹑平型纬编机﹐全成形平整纬编机﹐平型经编机﹕针距测量部位为针床平面。

2﹑圆型纬编机﹐圆型经编机﹕针距测量部位为针床直径处。

常用机号和针距141.814161.588181.414201.270221.154241.058260.977280.907前文亦讲及﹐织针与纱支之关系﹐强调纱支直径﹐纱线，织针与沉降片间之间隙﹐即针沟与针沟之间之间隙，纱线之直径必须小于或等于间隙距离﹐一般纱线之粗节或结头才能顺利通过。

为保证织物的质量﹐机号与纱线之配合﹐必须为适中。

前文亦列出针织厂的适用表之上,下限针数及纱支数。

路数﹕即织机喂入纱线之元件数﹐台湾称口数﹐香港称模数﹐中国大陆称路数。

每个喂入纱线之元件有称纱咀（FEEDER）﹐主管每根纱线亦是成圈系统元件之一﹐圆筒针织路数的多少就是每运转一次﹐布面有多少个线圈横列﹐亦即路数愈多之机台﹐每转一次﹐比路数少之机台﹐布面线圈横列多﹐亦即表示﹐产量愈大。

在编织色纱条子布时﹐路数多之机台﹐条子循环较大。

当然﹐路数亦以针筒直径大小而定﹐直径大﹐路数可多些﹐单面机以1寸安排3路﹐亦有些单面机1寸超过4路﹐罗纹双面通常1寸为2路﹐但亦有少部份机超过2路。

相同筒径﹐而路数多﹐亦即出针凸角多﹐其角度大﹐成圈运动速﹐较适宜做幼针及高支纱织物﹐路数少﹐亦即出针凸角少﹐其角度较细﹐成圈运动慢﹐较适宜做粗针及低支纱织物。

针织英语针织服饰名词中英对照针织服饰名词中英对照24LBUTTON24号钮6FEEDPIQUE6模珠地ACCESSORY辅料ACROSSMEASURE横量ACRYLIC腈纶ADHESIVE/FUSIBLEINTERLINING粘衬ANTIQUEBRASSCOATING镀青古铜ANTISTATICFINISH防静电处理APPAREL成衣APPEALINGLOOK吸引人的外表APPROVALSAMPLE批办APPROVEDSAMPLEWITHSIGNINGNAME签名批办ARMHOLE夹圈ASSEMBLINGOFFRONT&BACKPART前后幅合并ASSEMBLINGSECTION合并部分ATTACHCOLLAR上领ATTACHLABEL上商标ATTACHMENT（车缝）附件BACKCOVERFRONT后搭前BACKMID-ARMHOLE后背宽BACKSTITCH返针，回针BACKLESSDRESS露背装BARCODEDSTICKER条形码贴纸BARGAINING讨价还价BAR-TACK打枣BASTE假缝BATILK蜡染BEARER袋衬BEARER&FACING袋衬袋贴BEDFORDCORD.坑纹布，经条灯心绒BELLBOTTOM喇叭裤脚BELLOWSPOCKET风琴袋BELT腰带BELT-LOOP裤耳BIASCUT斜纹裁，纵纹裁BIFURCATE分*BINDER包边蝴蝶，滚边蝴蝶BINDING包边BINDINGOFSLV.OPENINGR折BINDINGOFTOPVENT面*包边BINDINGTAPE包边BINDING/BOUND滚条BLANKET毛毯，地毯BLEACH漂白BLEACHSPOT漂白污渍BLEEDING洗水后褪色BLENDFIBRE混纺纤维BLENDS混纺BLINDSTITCH挑脚线步BLOUSE女装衬衫BODYPRESSING衫身熨烫BODYRISE直浪BOTTOM衫脚，下摆BOTTOMVENTOFSLEEVE细侧BOTTOMS下装BOX-PLEATED外工字褶BOY'SSTYLEFLY/LEFTFLY男装钮牌，左钮牌BRAID织锦，织带BRANCH分公司BREAKSTITCHES断线BRIEFS男装紧身内裤BROCADE织锦，织带BROKENSTITCHING断线BUBBLING起泡BUCKLE皮带扣BUCKLE-LOOP皮带扣BULKPRODUCTION大量生产BUNDLECODE扎号BUNDLING执扎BUTTON钮扣BUTTONSTAND钮门搭位BUTTON-HOLE钮门/扣眼BUTTON-HOLING开钮门BUTTONING钉钮BUTTONINGWITHBUTTONSEWER用钉钮机钉钮C/BVENT后中*CALICO/GRAYCLOTHES胚布CANVAS马尾衬，帆布CARDBOARD纸板CARDED粗疏CARELABEL洗水唛CARTONNING装箱，入箱CASEPACKLABEL外箱贴纸CASHPOCKET表袋CASUALWEAR便装CATCHINGFACING钮子CENTERBACK后中CENTERCREASEFOLD中骨对折CENTERCREASELINE中骨线CENTERFRONT前中CERTIFIEDSUB-CONTRACTOR认可加工厂CHAINSTITCHM/C锁链车CHAINSTITCHES锁链线步CHAMPRAY皱布CHEMISE宽松服装CHEST/BUST胸围CHIC时髦的，流行的CIRCULARKNIT圆筒针织布CLASSICLOOK经典款式CLASSIFICATION分类CLEANFINISH还口CLEANFINISHOFTOPVENT面*还口CLEANFINISHWITH1/4"SINGLENEEDLE1/4"单针还口CLOSEFITTING贴身CLOSESIDESEAM埋侧骨COATING外套大衣COINPOCKET表袋COLLAR领子COLLARBAND下级领COLLARFALL上级领COLLARNOTCH领扼位COLLARPOINT领尖COLLARSTAND下级领COLLARSTAY领插竹COLLECTION系列COLORSHADING色差COMBED精梳CONSTRUCTEDSPECIFICATION结构细节CONTINUOUSPLACKETR折CONTROLOFLABORTURNOVER劳工流失控制CORDUROY灯心绒COSTSHEET成本单COTTONSTRING棉绳COVERINGSTITCHING拉冚线步（600类）CREASE&WRINKLYRESISTANTFINISH防皱处理CREASELINE折线CREPEDE-CHINE皱布CROSSCROTCH十字缝CROSSCUT横纹裁CROTCHPOINT浪顶点CTN.NO.箱号CUFF鸡英，介英CUFFATTACHINGTOSLEEVE车鸡英到袖子上CUFFVENT/CUFFOPENING袖侧CUFFEDBOTTOMHEM反脚，假反脚，脚级CUFFLESSBOTTOM平脚CURVEDPOCKET弯袋CUT&SEWN切驳CUTTINGPIECE裁片CUTTINGPIECENUMBERING给裁片编号D.K.JACQUARD双面提花（针织）DAMAGECAUSEDBYNEEDLE针孔DECORATIVESTITCHING装饰间线DELIVERYDATE落货期DENIER旦尼尔DENIM牛仔DENSITY密度DESIGNSKETCH设计图DESIGNEDFEATURE设计特征DIMENSION尺寸、尺码DINNERJACKET晚礼服DIRTSTAINSAFTERWASHING洗水后有污迹DIRTYSPOT污点DISCOUNT/SALESOFF打折DOBBY织花布DOUBLECUFF双层鸡英DOUBLEEND双经DOUBLEJETTEDPOCKET双唇袋DOUBLENEEDLEFELLSEAM双针埋夹DOUBLEPICK双纬DOUBLING并线DRESSCOAT礼服DRESSINGROOM试衣间DRILLING钻孔位DRY-CLEANED干洗DUCK帆布DYING染色EASING容位EDGESTITCHING间边线EDGETRIMMER修边器EDGE-FINISHING边脚处理EDGE-STITCHDART边线褶EDGE-STITCHINGW/1/16"宽1/16"的边线ELASTIC橡筋ELASTICWAISTBANDISEXTENSIONOFBODY原身出橡筋裤头ELBOWWIDTH肘宽EMBROIDERYPATCH绣花章EPAULET肩章EVENINGGOWNSET晚睡袍EXCELLENTSTYLE漂亮的款式EXCESSIVETHREADENDS多余的线头EXECUTIVEWEAR行政装EXPIRYDATE有效期EXPORTCARTON出口箱EXTENSIONOFWAISTBAND裤头搭咀EYELET凤眼FABRIC布料FABRICCONSTRUCTION布料结构FABRICDEFECTS布疵FABRICRUNS走纱FABRICSHADING布料色差FABRICSWATCH布办FABRICWIDTH布封FABRICATION/FABRIC布料FACING贴FACINGTOOUT-SIDE折向侧骨FALSEFLY暗钮牌FALSEPLACKET假明筒，假反筒FASHION时装FELLSEAM埋夹FIGURE-CLINGING紧身的，贴身胸围FILAMENT长纤丝FINALAPPEARANCE最终外观FINISHEDAPPEARANCE完成后的外观FITTING试身FLAMEPROOFFABRIC防火布FLANNEL法兰绒FLARESKIRT喇叭裙FLATMACHINE平车FLATSEAM平缝FLAX亚麻FLOWCHART流程图FOLDANDPACK折叠包装，折装FOLDBACKFACING原身出贴FOLDBACKHIDDENPLACKET原身双层钮筒FOLDFRONTEDGE折前幅边FOLDLINE折线FOLDPANTS折裤子FOLDPOCKETMOUTH折反袋口FORMANDFOLDGARMENT定型折衫FROCKS礼服FRONTEDGE前幅边FRONTMID-ARMHOLE前胸宽FRONTOPENING前开口FRONTPANEL前幅FULLYFASHIONSWEATER全成型毛衫FULLYOPENING全开口FUR皮草FURGARMENT裘皮服装FURRY毛皮制品FUSEINTERLINING粘衬FUSIBLEINTERLINING粘朴FUZZBALLS起球GABARDINE斜纹呢GARMENT成衣GARMENTDYE成衣染色GARMENTFINISH成衣后处理GARMENTSEWINGTECHNOLOGY成衣工艺GARMENTWASH成衣洗水，普洗GATHERING碎褶GIRL'SSTYLEFLY/RIGHTFLY女装钮牌，右钮牌GLACEDFINISH压光加工GOODTASTE高品味GR.WT.=GROSSWEIGHT毛重GRADING放码OGRAIN布纹GRAYCLOTH胚布GROMMET凤眼GROWN-ONSLEEVE原身出袖HALFOPENING半开口HANDBAG手袋HANDFEEL手感HANDLING执手HANGDLINGTIME执手时间HANGER衣架HEAVYFABRIC厚重面料HEM衫脚，下摆HEMCUFF反脚HEMMING卷边，还口HEMMINGWITHFOLDER用拉筒卷边HEMP大麻HERRINGBONETWILL人字斜纹布HEXAGONALPOCKET六角袋HIDDENPLACKET双层钮筒HIDDENBARTACK隐形枣HIGH-WAISTEDSKIRT高腰裙HIP坐围HIPPOCKET后袋HOODHEIGHT帽高HORIZONTALPLAID水平格INCORRECTLINKING错误的连接INITIALSAMPLE原办，初办INNEREXTENSION搭咀内层IN-SEAM内骨INSPECTION检查INSPIRATION灵感INTERLACING交织INTERLINING衬，朴INTERLININGFORFACING贴粘衬INTERLOCK双面布（针织）INVERTEDPLEAT内工字褶INVOICE发票IRONOVERALLBODY熨烫衫身IRONSPOT烫痕JACQUARD提花“J”SHAPEDPOCKETJ形袋JEANS牛仔裤JERSEY平纹单面针织布JOINCROTCH埋小浪JUTE黄麻KHAKI卡其KNIT针织KNITTEDRIBCOLLAR针织罗纹领KNOTS结头KNOWLEDGEOFMATERIAL材料学L到ZLABOURCOST劳工成本LACE花边LACOSTE双珠地LAPEL襟贴LAUNDRY干洗LAYOUT排唛，排料LEATHER皮革LEFTCOVERRIGHT左搭右LEGGINGS开裆裤LEISURESTYLE休闲款式LEISUREWEAR休闲服LEISUREWEARSHOW休闲装展示会LICENSE许可证LIGHTCURVEDPOCKET微弯袋LINEN亚麻LINING里布LINKING&CUPSEAMING缝盆LOCKSTITCH平车线步LOOPEDFABRIC毛圈布LOOPING起耳仔（疵点）LOOSEBUTTON钮扣松散LOOSEDTHREADCAUSINGGRINNING线太松导致起珠LUSTROUS光泽MACHINEMAINTENANCE机械保养MAGICTAPE魔术贴MAJORDEFECT大疵MAN-MADEFIBRE人造纤维MANUFACTURER制造商MARKBUTTONHOLE&BUTTONPOSITION标出钮门与钮扣的位置MARKPOCKETPOSITIONWITHTEMPLATE用纸板点袋位MARKER唛架MARKINGMID-POINTOFNECK定领围中位MASSPRODUCTION大批量生产MATCHCOLOR配色MATERIAL物料MEASUREMENT尺寸MELTON领底绒MILDREWRESIS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