SAT写作经典例子之香奈儿Word文档格式.docx

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Coco"

BonheurChanel（19August1883–10January1971）wasan 

influentialFrenchfashion 

designer,founderofthefamous 

brand 

Chanel,whose 

modernist 

thought,practical 

design,andpursuitofexpensive 

simplicity 

madeheranimportantand 

influentialfigure 

in20th-centuryfashion.ShewastheonlyfashiondesignertobenamedonTime100:

TheMostImportantPeopleoftheCentury.

Earlylife

　　Chanelwasborntoanunwedmother,JeanneDevolle,alaundrywoman,inafacilityfortheindigentinSaumur,France.ThiswasDevolle'

sseconddaughter.Thefather,AlbertChanelwasanitinerantstreetpeddlerwhowithhorseand 

cart 

liveda 

nomadic 

life,travelingtoandfrommarkettowns,thefamilyresidinginrundownlodgings.HemarriedJeanneDevolleseveralyearsafterChanelwasborn.AtbirthChanel’snamewasenteredintotheofficialregistryas“Chasnel.”Itisspeculatedthatthisspellingwasaclericalerrororanancientspellingofthefamilyname.Thecouple 

eventually 

hadfiveotherchildren:

Julia-Berthe,（1882–1913）,Antoinette（born1887）andthreebrothers,Alphonse（born1885）,Lucien（born1889）andAugustin（bornanddied1891）.

　　In1895,whenshewastwelveyearsold,Chanel’smotherdiedoftuberculosis.Herfathersenthertwobrothersoutasfarmlaborersandthethreedaughterstoa 

bleak 

areaofcentralFrance,theCorrè

ze,intothehandsofaconventfororphans,Aubazine.Itwasa 

stark, 

frugal 

lifedemanding 

strict 

discipline 

butraisedwiththe 

charity 

oftheCatholic 

faith.Atageeighteen,Chanel,nowtoooldtoremainatAubazine,wenttoliveinaboardinghousesetasideforCatholicgirlsinthetownofMoulins.

　　HavinglearnedthesewingartsduringhersixyearsatAubazine,Chanelwasabletofindemploymentasaseamstress.Whennotplyinghertradewitha 

needle,shesanginacabaretfrequentedby 

cavalry 

officers.ItwasatthistimethatGabrielleacquiredthename“Coco,”anamepossiblyderivedfroma 

popular 

songshesang,oran 

allusion 

totheFrenchwordforkeptwoman:

cocotte.

　　Laterinlife,sheconcoctedan 

elaborate,fabricatedhistorytocoverupher 

humblebeginningswithamore 

compelling 

light.OfthevariousstoriestoldaboutCocoChanel,agreatnumberwereofherown 

invention.Theselegendsweretobetheundoingoftheearliestofherbiographies.ThesewereghostedmemoirscommissionedbyChanelherself,butneverpublished,alwaysabortedbefore 

fruition,assherealizedthatthefacts 

exposed 

apersonagelesslaudatory 

thanthemythicChanelshehadself-invented.Chanelwouldsteadfastly 

claim 

thatwhenhermotherdied,herfathersailedforAmericatoseekhis 

fortune 

andshewassenttolivewithtwocold-heartedspinsteraunts.Sheevenclaimedtohavebeenbornin1893as 

opposed 

to1883,andthathermotherhaddiedwhenCocowassixinsteadoftwelve.

Personallifeandearlycareer

　　ItwasatMoulinsthatChanelmetayoung,French,ex-cavalry 

officer,andwealthy 

textile 

heirÉ

tienneBalsan.Atagetwenty-three,ChanelbecameBalsan’smistressandforthenextthreeyearslivedwithhiminhischateauRoyallieunearCompiè

gne,anareaknownforitswoodedequestrianpathsandthehuntinglife.Itwasalifestyleofself-indulgence,Balsan’swealthandleisureallowingthe 

cultivation 

ofa 

social 

setwhoreveledinpartyingandthe 

gratification 

ofhumanappetiteswithalltheimpliedaccompanying 

decadence.BalsanlavishedChanelwiththebeautiesof"

therichlife"

—diamonds,dresses,andpearls.ItwaswhilelivingwithBalsanthatChanelbegandesigninghats, 

initially 

asa 

diversion 

thatevolvedintoa 

commercial 

enterprise.Biographer 

JustinePicardie,inher2010studyCocoChanel:

The 

Legend 

andtheLife（HarperCollins）,suggeststhatthefashion 

designer'

snephew,André

Palasse,supposedlytheonlychildofhersisterJulia-Berthewhohad 

committed 

suicide,actuallywasChanel'

schildbyBalsan.

CaricaturebySemofChaneldancingwithBoyCapel,1913.

　　In1908ChanelbegananaffairwithoneofBalsan'

sfriends,CaptainArthurEdward'

Boy'

Capel.InlateryearsChanelreminiscedofthistimeinherlife:

“…twogentlemenwereoutbiddingformyhotlittlebody.”Capel,awealthymemberoftheEnglishupper-class,installedChanelinanapartmentinParisandfinancedChanel'

sfirstshops.ItissaidCapel'

sown 

sartorial 

styleinfluencedthe 

conception 

oftheChanellook.Thebottle 

design 

forChanelNo.5hadtwoprobableorigins,bothattributabletothe 

sophisticated 

designsensibilitiesofCapel.

　　Chanelbecamealicensedmodiste（hatmaker）in1910andopenedaboutiqueat21 

rue 

Cambon,ParisnamedChanelModes.Chanel'

smodistecareerbloomedoncetheatreactressGabrielleDorziatmodelledherhatsintheFNoziere'

splayBelAmiin1912（Subsequently,DorziatmodelledherhatsagaininLesModes）.In1913,she 

established 

aboutiqueinDeauville,wheresheintroducedluxecasualclothesthatwere 

suitable 

forleisureandsport.Chanellaunchedhercareerasfashiondesigner 

whensheopenedhernextboutique,titledChanel-Biarritz,in1915,cateringtothewealthySpanish 

clientele 

whoholidayedinBiarritzandwereless 

affected 

bythewar. 

Fashionable 

likeDeauville,Chanelcreatedloosecasualclothesmadeoutofjersey,amaterialtypicallyusedformen'

sunderwear.By1919,Chanelwasregisteredasacouturiereandestablishedhermaisondecoutureat31rueCambon.

CocoChanel,1920.

　　In1920,shewasintroducedby 

ballet 

impresario 

SergeiDiaghilevtoIgorStravinsky.Nowanotable 

patron 

ofthearts,Chanelguaranteedtheproductionofthe 

LeSacreduPrintemps（“The 

Rite 

ofSpring”）againstfinancialloss,andprovidedhernewhomeBelRespiro,locatedinaParissuburb,asa 

residence 

for 

composer 

Stravinskyandhisfamily.In 

addition 

toturningouthercouturecollections,Chanelthrewher 

prodigious 

energiesintodesigningdancecostumesforthecutting-edge 

Ballet 

Russe.Betweentheyears1923-1937,shecollaboratedonproductionschoreographedbyDiaghilevanddancerVaslavNijinsky,notablyLeTrainbleu,adance-opera,Orphé

eandOedipeRoi.

　　In1924,ChanelmadeanagreementwiththeWertheimerbrothers,PierreandPaul,directorsoftheeminent 

perfume 

houseBourgeoissince1917,creatinga 

corporate 

entity,"

ParfumsChanel."

TheWertheimersagreedtoprovidefull 

financing 

forproduction,marketinganddistribution 

ofChanelNo.5.Fortenpercentofthe 

stock,Chanellicensedhernameto"

ParfumsChanel"

andremovedherselffrom 

involvement 

inallbusinessoperations. 

Displeased 

withthearrangement,Chanelworkedformorethantwentyyearstogainfull 

control 

of"

SheproclaimedthatPierreWertheimerwas“thebanditwhoscrewedme.”

　　OneofChanel’slongestand 

enduring 

associationswaswithMisiaSert,anotoriousmemberoftheParisian,bohemian 

elite 

andwifeofSpanishpainterJosé

-MariaSert.Itissaidthattheirswasan 

immediate 

bond 

oflikesouls,andMisiawasattractedtoChanelby“her 

genius, 

lethalwit, 

sarcasm 

and 

maniacal 

destructiveness,which 

intrigued 

andappalledeveryone.”Bothwomen,conventbred,maintainedafriendshipofsharedinterests,confidencesanddruguse.By1935,Chanelhadbecomea 

habitual 

druguser,injectingherselfwithmorphineonadailybasisuntiltheendofherlife.AccordingtoChandlerBurr'

sTheEmperorof 

Scent,LucaTurin 

relatedan 

apocryphal 

storyin 

circulation 

thatChanelwas"

calledCocobecauseshethrewthemostfabulouscocainepartiesinParis"

PerfumeChanelNo.5

　　In1923,VeraBateLombardi,bornSarahGertrudeArkwright,reputedlythe 

illegitimatedaughteroftheMarquessofCambridge,affordedChanel 

entry 

intothehighestlevelsofBritisharistocracy.Itwasan 

groupofassociationsrevolvingaroundsuchpersonagesasWinstonChurchill,aristocratssuchastheDukeofWestminsterandroyalssuchasEdward,PrinceofWales.ItwasinMonteCarloin1923,atageforty-twothatChanelwasintroducedbyLombarditothevastlywealthyDukeofWestminster,HughRichardArthurGrosvenor,knowntohisintimatesas“Bendor”.TheDukeofWestminsterlavishedChanelwith 

extravagant 

jewels, 

costly 

art,andahomeinMayfair.In1929,he 

gifted 

herwitha 

parcel 

oflandhehadpurchasednearMonteCarlowhereChanelbuiltan 

opulent 

villa,LaPausaHisaffairwithChanellastedtenyears.TheDuke,anoutspoken 

anti-Semite,intensifiedChanel’s 

inherent 

antipathy 

towardJewsandsharedwithhiman 

expressed 

homophobia.

　　Itwasin1931whileinMonteCarlothatChanelmadethe 

acquaintance 

ofSamuelGoldwyn.Theintroductionwasmadethroughamutualfriend,theGrandDukeDmitriPavlovich,cousintothelastczarofRussia,NicolasII.GoldwynofferedChanelatantalizing 

proposition.Forthesumofamilliondollars（approximately 

seventy-fivemilliontoday）,hewouldbringhertoHollywoodtwiceayearto 

costumesforMGMstars.Chanelacceptedtheoffer.En 

route 

toCaliforniafromNewYorktravelinginawhitetraincar,whichhadbeenluxuriouslyoutfittedspecificallyforheruse,shewasinterviewedbyColliersmagazinein1932.Chanelsaidshehadagreedtothearrangement 

to"

seewhatthepictureshavetooffermeandwhatIhavetoofferthepictures."

This 

enterprise 

withthefilmindustryleftChanelwitha 

dislike 

forthebusinessofmoviemakinganddistastefortheHollywoodcultureitself,whichs