奢饰品设计外文翻译文献Word格式.docx

奢饰品设计外文翻译文献Word格式.docx

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EcoDesignandSustainableManufacturinginFashion:

aCaseStudyintheLuxuryPersonalAccessoriesIndustry（服饰生态设计与可持续制造：

以奢侈品个性化配饰行业为例）

国外作者：

BarbaraCimatti，GiampaoloCampana，LauraCarluccio

文献出处：

《ProcediaManufacturing》，2017，8:

393-400

字数统计：

英文3717单词，20458字符；

中文6365汉字

外文文献：

EvolutionofFashionDesignintheEraofHigh-TechCulture

AbstractTheFashionmarketischaracterizedbytherapiditywithwhichaproductbecomesoutmoded.Enterprisesproducingclothes,shoes,bagsandotheraccessoriesgeneratewastesatafastrhythm,duetothecontinuouschangeofcollections.Theymuststorenotablequantitiesoftextilesandcomponentsnotlongerusedforproduction.Furthermore,thepercentageofscrapsoffabrics,leatherandothermaterials,isoftensignificant.RecyclingcanbeappliedtotheFashionsectorinordertorecuperatewastesandcreateoriginalitems,whichcanbeparticularlysuccessfulinamarketwherecustomersareincreasingtheirsensitivitytowardssustainability.WedescribethecaseofaprestigiousItalianbrand,manufacturinghighluxuryleatherandfabricaccessorieswhereEcoDesignandRecyclinghavebeenapplied.ALifeCycleAssessmentofatraditionalproductofthecompanyisalsopresentedtoenhancethesignificantaspectsofsustainabilityinFashion.

Keywords:

Sustainability;

SlowFashion;

EcoDesign;

Recycling;

LCA.

1.Introduction

Beforemassproduction,peoplepossessedfarfewerclothesandaccessories.Itemsweretailoredforthewealthy,whilethelowersocialclassesmadetheirownclothes.Garmentswereusedandmaintainedforseveralyearsbyrepairingandremodelling.Indeed,theycouldbeconsideredlonglifeproducts.Thebirthofready-to-wearfashionimpliedthestandardizationofsizesandareductioninproductioncoststhatallowedconsumerstobuymoreclotheseveniftheydidnotfitasperfectlyastheonesofthedressmakers.

Atthesametime,globalisationofproduction,increasedcompetitionandconsumerdemandhaveresultedinacceleratedfashioncycles,whichinturnhaveledtoacultureof“fast”anddisposablefashion.Developingcountrieshavebecomeclothingmanufacturinglocationsofchoice,whileindustrialisedcountries,duetotheirhigherinputcosts（labour,capital,energy,environmentalandconsumer-protectioncompliance,etc.）havebeenincreasinglyunabletocompetewiththelowcostsofferedbyemergingcountryproducers.Priceshavefurtherdecreasedbutsotoohasquality.Inrecentdecades,theideaofcustomizationinclothingandaccessorieshasstronglydevelopedandthedemandformorepersonalisedproductshasexpanded.ItisinthiscontextthatFastFashionhasappearedasatooltosatisfyconsumerdesireforLuxuryFashionbutataffordableprices,especiallyfortheyoungergeneration.Infact,FastFashionreferstolow-costclothingcollectionsthatmimiccurrentluxuryfashiontrends.Itisbyitsverynature,afast-responsesystemthatencouragesdisposability.

Theideaofsustainabilitywasfirstdefinedin1987inaReportoftheWorldCommissiononEnvironmentandDevelopment:

“Sustainabilitymeansbeingabletosatisfycurrentneedswithoutcompromisingthepossibilityforfuturegenerationstosatisfytheirownneeds”.DimensionsofsustainabilityhavebeenintroducedthroughtheconceptoftheTripleBottomLine:

Environment;

Economy;

Society.

FastFashionbringsupethicalandenvironmentalissuesasitclearlyembodiesunsustainability.Inparticularthelackofsocialdimensionisevident.Fashion’sfastobsolescenceishighlyunsustainableanditisduetoasocialandculturalissuecomingfromacontinuousdesireforfashionablerenewal,whichindividualshaveinordertoachieveapersonalaffirmationandtodistinguishthemselvesfromothers.Clothesandaccessoriespeoplechoosetoweararestronglyaffectedbythedecisionandactionsofotherslivinginthesamesocialcontext.Theneedtocontinuouslybuynewgarmentsisfosteredbymassmediaandbusinessspeculations.

AformerlystandardturnaroundtimefromcatwalktoconsumerofsixmonthsisnowcompressedtoamatterofmereweeksbysuchcompaniesasH&

MandZara,typicalexponentsofFastFashion,withheightenedprofitstomatch.Fastfashioncompaniesthriveonfastcycles:

rapidprototyping,smallbatches,combinedwithlargevariety,moreefficienttransportationanddelivery,andmerchandisethatispresented“floorready”onhangerswithpricetagsalreadyattached.Technologyadvancessuchastrackingsaleswithelectronictillsandlinkingthesedatatosupplierfactorieswithflexibleproductionscheduleshasnowmadeitpossibletorestockarailwithpopularitemsasdemandrequires;

andcomputer-aideddesigninterfacedwithjust-in-timemanufacturingmethodshasenabledadesignsketchtobeturnedintoafinishedproductinaslittleasthreeweeks.FastFashionenterprisesgenerally