英文参考文献及翻译.docx
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英文参考文献及翻译
学校代码:
10128
学号:
201121805007
英文参考资料翻译
(
题目:
多层横机针织织物面料的开发
学生姓名:
张文在
学院:
轻工与纺织学院
系别:
服装设计与工程系
专业:
服装设计与工程
班级:
服装设计与工程11-1班
指导教师:
邱莉讲师
指导教师:
邱莉讲师
二零一五年六月
DevelopmentofMulti-LayerFabriconaFlatKnittingMachine
Abstract
Thelooptransfertechniquewasusedtodeveloptheasplitablemultilayerknitfabriconacomputerizedmultigaugeflatknittingmachine.Thefabricconsistsofthreelayers:
inner-singlejersey,middle-1X1purland,outer-singlejersey.Byvaryingthelooplengththemultilayerknitfabricsampleswereproduced,namelyCCC-1,CCC-2andCCC-3.Theabovemultilayerfabricswereknittedusing24sNecottonofcombinedyarnfeedinfeeders3,4,and4respectively.Theinfluenceoflooplengthonwpc,cpcandtightnessfactorwasstudiedusinglinearregression.ThewatervaporandairpermeabilitypropertiesoftheproducedmultilayerknitfabricswerestudiedusingANOVA.Thechangeofrawmaterialinthreeindividuallayerscouldbeusefulfortheproductionoffabricforfunctional,technical,andindustrialapplications.
Keywords:
multilayerfabric,looplength,looptransfer,permeabilityprope
1.INTRODUCTION
capableofmanufacturingengineeredfabricintwodimensional,threedimensionalofbi-layer,andmultilayerknitfabrics.Thefeatureincludesindividualneedleselection,thepresencesofholdingdownsinkers,racking,transfer,andadaptedfeedingdevicescombinedwithCAD.Thelayeredfabricsaremoresuitableforfunctionalandtechnicalapplicationsthansinglelayerfabrics.Thesefabricsmaybenon-splitable(branchingknitstructure,platedfabric,spacerfabric)andsplitable(bilayer,multilayer).Thefunctionalknittedstructureoftwodifferentfabriclayersbasedondifferenttextilecomponents(hydrophobicandhydrophilictextilematerial)isusedtoproduceleisurewear,sportswearandprotectiveclothingtoimprovethecomfort.Theseparationlayerispolypropyleneincontactwithskin,andtheabsorptionlayerwillbetheoutsidelayerwhencottonisusedfortheknitfabric.
Garmentsmadeofplantbranchstructuredknitfabricsfacilitatethetransportofsweatfromtheskintotheouterlayerofthefabricveryfastandmakethewearermorecomfortable.QingChenetal.reportedthatthebranchingknittedfabricsmadefromdifferentcombinationsofpolyester/cottonyarnswithvaryinglineardensityandvariousknittedstructureproducedinribmachineimprovedwatertransportproperties.TheMoisturecomfortcharacteristicsofplatedknittedfabricwasgood,reportedbytheauthorsfindingsfromthreelayerplatedfabricofcotton(40s),lycra(20D)andsuperfinepolypropylene(55dtex/72f)wasusedasarawmaterialinface,middleandgroundlayersrespectively.Theapplicationsinwearableelectronicsforthemultilayerfabricarewider.Novelmulti-functionalfibersstructureincludethreelayeredknitfabricembeddedwithelectronicsforhealthmonitoring.Theknitfabricconsistsof5%spandexand95%polypropylenein–1stlayer,-2ndlayercomposedofmetalfiberstoconductelectriccurrenttoembeddedelectronics+PCMandthe3rdlayeriscomposedofhighlyhydrophiliccotton.Inflatknitting,twosurface(U-,V-,M-,X-andY-shaped)andthreesurfacelayers(U-facetoface,U-zigzagandX-shaped)spacerfabricweredevelopedfromhybridglassfilamentandpolypropyleneforlightweightcompositeapplications.HCebullaetalproducedthreedimensionalperformslikeopencuboidandsphericalshellusingtheneedleparkingmethod.Thefocuswasintheareaofindividualneedleselectioninthemachinefortheproductionofnearnet-shapeperforms.Themultilayeredsandwichknitfabricofrectangularcorestructure(connectinglayer:
rib),triangularcorestructure(connectinglayer:
interlock),honeycombcorestructure(connectinglayer:
jerseycombinedwithrib),triplefacestructure1(connectinglayersarenotalternated),Triplefacestructure2(connectinglayersarealternated)weredevelopedonaflat-knittingmachinefortechnicalapplications.
Inthisdirectiontheflatknittingmachinewaselectedtoproducesplittablemultilayerknitfabricwithvaryinglooplengthandlooptransfertechniques.Theinfluenceoflooplengthonwpc,cpcandtightnessfactorwasstudiedforthethreeindividuallayersinthefabric.Theimportantbreathabilitypropertiesofthefabricsuchaswatervaporpermeabilityandairpermeabilitywerestudied.Theproductiontechniqueusedforthisfabrichaswideapplicationssuchasinfunctionalwear,technicaltextiles,andwearabletextiles.
2.MATERIALSANDMETHODS
Theproductionofmulti-layerknitfabricssuchasCCC-1,CCC-2andCCC-3cottonyarnwiththelineardensityof24sNewasfedintheknitfeeder.Forlayeredfabricdevelopment,acomputerizedmultigaugeflatknittingmachineandcombinedyarnfeedwasselectedlike3,4and4respectively,shownintheTableI.Q.M.WangandH.Hu[9]wastheselectedyarnfeedintherangeof4–10fortheproductionofglassfiberyarncompositereinforcementonaflatknittingmachine.Theintermediatebetweenintegralandfullyfashionedgarmentwasproducedusingthe“halfgaugingor
needleparking”technique.Theuseofonlyalternateneedlesoneachbedoftheflatknittingmachinewasusedforstitchformation,Theremainingneedlesdidnotparticipateinstitchformationinthesamecourse,buttheloopsformedwerekeptintheneedleheaduntilemployedforstitchformationagain,thusfreeingneedlestobeusedastemporaryparkingplacesforlooptransfer.Forproductionoflayeredfabricandfullyfashionedgarment,thelooptransferstitchisessentialpartofthepanel.Therunning-onbarswereusedfortransferringofloopseitherbyhandorautomaticallyfromoneneedletoanotherneedledependingonthemachine.The
principleofthelooptransferisshownintheFigure1.
FIGURE.1.Principleoflooptransfer.
(a)Thedeliveringneedleisraisedbyacaminthecarriage.Theloopisstretchedoverthetransferspring.(b)Thereceivingneedleisraisedslightlyfromitsneedlebed.Thereceivingneedleentersthetransferspringofdeliveringneedleandpenetratestheloopthatwillbetransferred.(c)Thedeliveringneedleretreatsleavingthelooponthereceivingneedle.Thetransferspringopenstopermitsthereceivingneedletomovebackfromitsclosure.Finally,looptransferenceiscompleted.
TABLEI.Machine&Fabricparameters.
2.1FabricDevelopment
UsingSTOLLM1.PLUS5.1.034softwaretheneedleselectionpatternwassimulatedisshowninFigure2.InFigure3,feeder1,2and3areusedfortheformationofthreelayerfabric(inner-singlejersey,middle-1X1purlandouter-singlejersey)respectively.Withknitstitchestheouterandinnerlayerknitfabricsareformedbymeansofselectingthealternateworkingneedlesineachbed.Butthemiddlelayerfabricisformedbyfreeneedlesineachbedwiththehelpoflooptransferandknitstitches.
FIGURE2.SelectionofMachine&patternparameters.
FIGURE3.Needlediagramforthemulti-layerknitfabric.
2.2TESTING
Theproducedmultilayerknitfabricwasgivenarelaxationprocessandthefollowingtestswerecarriedout.TheknittedfabricpropertiesaregiveninTableII.andthecrosssectionalviewofthefabricsisshowninFigure4.
FIGURE4.CrossSectionalviewofMulti-layerknitfabric.
2.3StitchDensity
Thecoursesandwaledensityofthesamplesinouter,middleandinnerlayerwerecalculatedindividuallyinthedirectionofthelengthandwidthofthefabric.Theaveragedensitypersquarecentimeterwastakenforthediscussion.
2.4LoopLength
Inouter,middleandinnerlayersofvariouscombinationsinmultilayerfabric,20loopsinacoursewereunraveledandthelengthofyarnincm(LT)wasmeasured.FromtheLTvaluethestitchlength/looplengthwasmeasuredbyusing
Stitchlength/looplengthincm(L)=(LT)/20
(1)
Theaveragelooplength(cm)wastakenandreportedinTableII.
2.5TightnessFactor(K)
Thetightnessoftheknitswascharacterizedbythetightnessfactor(K).ItisknownthatKisaratiooftheareacoveredbytheyarnsinonelooptotheareaoccupiedbytheloop.Itisalsoanindicationoftherelativeloosenessortightnessoftheknittedstructure.FordeterminationofTFthefollowingformulawasused
TightnessFactor(K)=√T/l
(2)
WhereT=YarnlineardensityinTex,l=looplengthoffabricincm.TheTFofthreelayers(outer,middle,andinner)werecalculatedseparatelyisgiveninTableII.
TABLEII.Multi-layerknittedfabricparameters
3.RESULTSANDDISCUSSION
ThewatervaporpermeabilityofthemultilayerknitfabricswereanalyzedandshowninFigure8.Itcanbeobservedthatalineartrendisfollowedbetweenwatervaporpermeabilityandlooplength.Withincreasesinlooplength,thereislessresistanceperunitarea,so,thepermeabilitypropertyofthefabricalsoincreased.Anovadatashowincreasesinlooplengthyieldasignificantdifferenceinthewatervaporpermeabilityofthemultifabrics[F(2,15)>Fcrit].TheregressionanalysiswasdonebetweenCCC-1andCCC-2andCCC-2andCCC-3forstudyingtheinfluenceofthenumberofyarnfeeds.R2valuesshows0.755forbothcomparisons.Thewatervaporpermeabilityofthefabricishighlyinfluencedbythelengthoftheloopinthefabricandlessbythenumberofyarnfeedinthefabric.
TheairpermeabilityofthemultilayerknitfabricswasanalyzedandisshowninFigure8.ItcanbeobservedthattheairpermeabilityoftheCCC-1,CCC-2,andCCC-3fabricsislinearwithlooplength.
FIGURE8.WaterVaporPermeability&AirPermeabilityoffabric.
Aslooplengthinthefabricincreased,airpermeabilityalsoincreased.TheAnova-singlefactoranalysisals