英文参考文献及翻译.docx

英文参考文献及翻译.docx

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英文参考文献及翻译

学校代码：

10128

学号：

201121805007

英文参考资料翻译

（

题目：

多层横机针织织物面料的开发

学生姓名：

张文在

学院：

轻工与纺织学院

系别：

服装设计与工程系

专业：

服装设计与工程

班级：

服装设计与工程11-1班

指导教师：

邱莉讲师

指导教师：

邱莉讲师

二零一五年六月

DevelopmentofMulti-LayerFabriconaFlatKnittingMachine

Abstract

Thelooptransfertechniquewasusedtodeveloptheasplitablemultilayerknitfabriconacomputerizedmultigaugeflatknittingmachine.Thefabricconsistsofthreelayers:

inner-singlejersey,middle-1X1purland,outer-singlejersey.Byvaryingthelooplengththemultilayerknitfabricsampleswereproduced,namelyCCC-1,CCC-2andCCC-3.Theabovemultilayerfabricswereknittedusing24sNecottonofcombinedyarnfeedinfeeders3,4,and4respectively.Theinfluenceoflooplengthonwpc,cpcandtightnessfactorwasstudiedusinglinearregression.ThewatervaporandairpermeabilitypropertiesoftheproducedmultilayerknitfabricswerestudiedusingANOVA.Thechangeofrawmaterialinthreeindividuallayerscouldbeusefulfortheproductionoffabricforfunctional,technical,andindustrialapplications.

Keywords:

multilayerfabric,looplength,looptransfer,permeabilityprope

1.INTRODUCTION

capableofmanufacturingengineeredfabricintwodimensional,threedimensionalofbi-layer,andmultilayerknitfabrics.Thefeatureincludesindividualneedleselection,thepresencesofholdingdownsinkers,racking,transfer,andadaptedfeedingdevicescombinedwithCAD.Thelayeredfabricsaremoresuitableforfunctionalandtechnicalapplicationsthansinglelayerfabrics.Thesefabricsmaybenon-splitable（branchingknitstructure,platedfabric,spacerfabric）andsplitable（bilayer,multilayer）.Thefunctionalknittedstructureoftwodifferentfabriclayersbasedondifferenttextilecomponents（hydrophobicandhydrophilictextilematerial）isusedtoproduceleisurewear,sportswearandprotectiveclothingtoimprovethecomfort.Theseparationlayerispolypropyleneincontactwithskin,andtheabsorptionlayerwillbetheoutsidelayerwhencottonisusedfortheknitfabric.

Garmentsmadeofplantbranchstructuredknitfabricsfacilitatethetransportofsweatfromtheskintotheouterlayerofthefabricveryfastandmakethewearermorecomfortable.QingChenetal.reportedthatthebranchingknittedfabricsmadefromdifferentcombinationsofpolyester/cottonyarnswithvaryinglineardensityandvariousknittedstructureproducedinribmachineimprovedwatertransportproperties.TheMoisturecomfortcharacteristicsofplatedknittedfabricwasgood,reportedbytheauthorsfindingsfromthreelayerplatedfabricofcotton（40s）,lycra（20D）andsuperfinepolypropylene（55dtex/72f）wasusedasarawmaterialinface,middleandgroundlayersrespectively.Theapplicationsinwearableelectronicsforthemultilayerfabricarewider.Novelmulti-functionalfibersstructureincludethreelayeredknitfabricembeddedwithelectronicsforhealthmonitoring.Theknitfabricconsistsof5%spandexand95%polypropylenein–1stlayer,-2ndlayercomposedofmetalfiberstoconductelectriccurrenttoembeddedelectronics+PCMandthe3rdlayeriscomposedofhighlyhydrophiliccotton.Inflatknitting,twosurface（U-,V-,M-,X-andY-shaped）andthreesurfacelayers（U-facetoface,U-zigzagandX-shaped）spacerfabricweredevelopedfromhybridglassfilamentandpolypropyleneforlightweightcompositeapplications.HCebullaetalproducedthreedimensionalperformslikeopencuboidandsphericalshellusingtheneedleparkingmethod.Thefocuswasintheareaofindividualneedleselectioninthemachinefortheproductionofnearnet-shapeperforms.Themultilayeredsandwichknitfabricofrectangularcorestructure（connectinglayer:

rib）,triangularcorestructure（connectinglayer:

interlock）,honeycombcorestructure（connectinglayer:

jerseycombinedwithrib）,triplefacestructure1（connectinglayersarenotalternated）,Triplefacestructure2（connectinglayersarealternated）weredevelopedonaflat-knittingmachinefortechnicalapplications.

Inthisdirectiontheflatknittingmachinewaselectedtoproducesplittablemultilayerknitfabricwithvaryinglooplengthandlooptransfertechniques.Theinfluenceoflooplengthonwpc,cpcandtightnessfactorwasstudiedforthethreeindividuallayersinthefabric.Theimportantbreathabilitypropertiesofthefabricsuchaswatervaporpermeabilityandairpermeabilitywerestudied.Theproductiontechniqueusedforthisfabrichaswideapplicationssuchasinfunctionalwear,technicaltextiles,andwearabletextiles.

2.MATERIALSANDMETHODS

Theproductionofmulti-layerknitfabricssuchasCCC-1,CCC-2andCCC-3cottonyarnwiththelineardensityof24sNewasfedintheknitfeeder.Forlayeredfabricdevelopment,acomputerizedmultigaugeflatknittingmachineandcombinedyarnfeedwasselectedlike3,4and4respectively,shownintheTableI.Q.M.WangandH.Hu[9]wastheselectedyarnfeedintherangeof4–10fortheproductionofglassfiberyarncompositereinforcementonaflatknittingmachine.Theintermediatebetweenintegralandfullyfashionedgarmentwasproducedusingthe“halfgaugingor

needleparking”technique.Theuseofonlyalternateneedlesoneachbedoftheflatknittingmachinewasusedforstitchformation,Theremainingneedlesdidnotparticipateinstitchformationinthesamecourse,buttheloopsformedwerekeptintheneedleheaduntilemployedforstitchformationagain,thusfreeingneedlestobeusedastemporaryparkingplacesforlooptransfer.Forproductionoflayeredfabricandfullyfashionedgarment,thelooptransferstitchisessentialpartofthepanel.Therunning-onbarswereusedfortransferringofloopseitherbyhandorautomaticallyfromoneneedletoanotherneedledependingonthemachine.The

principleofthelooptransferisshownintheFigure1.

FIGURE.1.Principleoflooptransfer.

（a）Thedeliveringneedleisraisedbyacaminthecarriage.Theloopisstretchedoverthetransferspring.（b）Thereceivingneedleisraisedslightlyfromitsneedlebed.Thereceivingneedleentersthetransferspringofdeliveringneedleandpenetratestheloopthatwillbetransferred.（c）Thedeliveringneedleretreatsleavingthelooponthereceivingneedle.Thetransferspringopenstopermitsthereceivingneedletomovebackfromitsclosure.Finally,looptransferenceiscompleted.

TABLEI.Machine&Fabricparameters.

2.1FabricDevelopment

UsingSTOLLM1.PLUS5.1.034softwaretheneedleselectionpatternwassimulatedisshowninFigure2.InFigure3,feeder1,2and3areusedfortheformationofthreelayerfabric（inner-singlejersey,middle-1X1purlandouter-singlejersey）respectively.Withknitstitchestheouterandinnerlayerknitfabricsareformedbymeansofselectingthealternateworkingneedlesineachbed.Butthemiddlelayerfabricisformedbyfreeneedlesineachbedwiththehelpoflooptransferandknitstitches.

FIGURE2.SelectionofMachine&patternparameters.

FIGURE3.Needlediagramforthemulti-layerknitfabric.

2.2TESTING

Theproducedmultilayerknitfabricwasgivenarelaxationprocessandthefollowingtestswerecarriedout.TheknittedfabricpropertiesaregiveninTableII.andthecrosssectionalviewofthefabricsisshowninFigure4.

FIGURE4.CrossSectionalviewofMulti-layerknitfabric.

2.3StitchDensity

Thecoursesandwaledensityofthesamplesinouter,middleandinnerlayerwerecalculatedindividuallyinthedirectionofthelengthandwidthofthefabric.Theaveragedensitypersquarecentimeterwastakenforthediscussion.

2.4LoopLength

Inouter,middleandinnerlayersofvariouscombinationsinmultilayerfabric,20loopsinacoursewereunraveledandthelengthofyarnincm（LT）wasmeasured.FromtheLTvaluethestitchlength/looplengthwasmeasuredbyusing

Stitchlength/looplengthincm（L）=（LT）/20

（1）

Theaveragelooplength（cm）wastakenandreportedinTableII.

2.5TightnessFactor（K）

Thetightnessoftheknitswascharacterizedbythetightnessfactor（K）.ItisknownthatKisaratiooftheareacoveredbytheyarnsinonelooptotheareaoccupiedbytheloop.Itisalsoanindicationoftherelativeloosenessortightnessoftheknittedstructure.FordeterminationofTFthefollowingformulawasused

TightnessFactor（K）=√T/l

（2）

WhereT=YarnlineardensityinTex,l=looplengthoffabricincm.TheTFofthreelayers（outer,middle,andinner）werecalculatedseparatelyisgiveninTableII.

TABLEII.Multi-layerknittedfabricparameters

3.RESULTSANDDISCUSSION

ThewatervaporpermeabilityofthemultilayerknitfabricswereanalyzedandshowninFigure8.Itcanbeobservedthatalineartrendisfollowedbetweenwatervaporpermeabilityandlooplength.Withincreasesinlooplength,thereislessresistanceperunitarea,so,thepermeabilitypropertyofthefabricalsoincreased.Anovadatashowincreasesinlooplengthyieldasignificantdifferenceinthewatervaporpermeabilityofthemultifabrics[F（2,15）>Fcrit].TheregressionanalysiswasdonebetweenCCC-1andCCC-2andCCC-2andCCC-3forstudyingtheinfluenceofthenumberofyarnfeeds.R2valuesshows0.755forbothcomparisons.Thewatervaporpermeabilityofthefabricishighlyinfluencedbythelengthoftheloopinthefabricandlessbythenumberofyarnfeedinthefabric.

TheairpermeabilityofthemultilayerknitfabricswasanalyzedandisshowninFigure8.ItcanbeobservedthattheairpermeabilityoftheCCC-1,CCC-2,andCCC-3fabricsislinearwithlooplength.

FIGURE8.WaterVaporPermeability&AirPermeabilityoffabric.

Aslooplengthinthefabricincreased,airpermeabilityalsoincreased.TheAnova-singlefactoranalysisals