Bohemian style英语.docx

Bohemian style英语.docx

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Bohemianstyle英语

Bohemianstyle

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YoungBohémienne:

NatalieCliffordBarney（1875-1972）attheageof10（paintingbyCarolus-Duran）

Mainarticle:

Bohemianism

Inmodernusage,theterm"Bohemian"isappliedtopeoplewholiveunconventional,usuallyartistic,lives.Theadherentsofthe"BloomsburyGroup",whichformedaroundtheStephensisters,VanessaBellandVirginiaWoolfintheearly20thcentury,areamongthebest-knownexamples.Theoriginal"Bohemians"weretravelersorrefugeesfromcentralEurope（hence,theFrenchbohémien,for"gypsy"）.

Reflectingonthefashionstyleof"boho-chic"intheearlyyearsofthe21stcentury,theSundayTimesthoughtitironicthat"fashionablegirlsworerufflyfloralskirtsinthehopeoflookingbohemian,nomadic,spiritedandnon-bourgeois",whereas"gypsygirlsthemselves...aresexyanddelightfulpreciselybecausetheydonotgiveahootforfashion"[1].Bycontrast,inthelate19thcenturyandfirsthalfofthe20th,aspectsofBohemianfashionreflectedthelifestyleitself.

Pre-Raphaelites

JaneMorrispaintedbyDanteGabrielRossettiasProserpine（1874）

In1848WilliamMakepeaceThackerayusedthewordbohemianisminhisnovelVanityFair.In1862,theWestminsterReviewdescribedaBohemianas"simplyanartistorlittérateurwho,consciouslyorunconsciously,secedesfromconventionalityinlifeandinart".Duringthe1860sthetermwasassociatedinparticularwiththepre-Raphaelitemovement,thegroupofartistsandaesthetesofwhichDanteGabrielRossettiwasthemostprominent[2]:

Asthe1860sprogressed,Rossettiwouldbecomethegrandprinceofbohemianismashisdeviationsfromnormalstandardsbecamemoreaudacious.Andashebecemethisepitomeoftheunconventional,hisegocentricdemandsnecessarilyrequiredhisclosefriendstoremodeltheirownlivesaroundhim.Hisbohemianismwaslikeawebinwhichothersbecametrapped–nonemoresothanWilliamandJaneMorris[3].

JaneMorrisandpre-Raphaelitetraits

JaneMorris,whowastobecomeRossetti'smuse,epitomised,probablymorethananyofthewomenassociatedwiththepre-Raphaelites,anunrestricted,flowingstyleofdressthat,whileunconventionalatthetime,wouldbehighlyinfluentialatcertainperiodsduringthe20thcentury[4].Sheandothers,includingthemuchlessoutlandishGeorgianaBurne-Jones（wifeofEdwardBurne-Jones）,eschewedthecorsetsandcrinolinesofthemidtolateVictorianera[5],afeaturethatimpressedtheAmericanwriterHenryJameswhenhewrotetohissisterin1869ofthebohemianatmosphereoftheMorrises’houseintheBloomsburydistrictofLondonand,inparticular,the“darksilentmedieval”presenceofitschateleine:

It’shardtosaywhethershe’sagrandsynthesisofallthepre-Raphaelitepicturesevermade…whethershe’sanoriginaloracopy.Ineithercaseshe’sawonder.Imagineatallleanwomaninalongdressofsomedeadpurplestuff,guiltlessofhoops（orofanythingelseIshouldsay）withamassofcrispblackhairheapedintogreatwavyprojectionsoneachofhertemples…alongneck,withoutanycollar,andinlieuthereofsomedozenstringsofoutlandishbeads[6].Early20thcentury

"Bundle"BrentinTheSevenDialsMystery（AgathaChristie,1929）

Thepre-Raphaelitelookwasstillconsidered"advanced"inthelateyearsofthe19thcentury[7],bywhenmovements,suchastheRationalDressSociety（1881）,withwhichtheMorrisesandGeorgianaBurne-Joneswereinvolved,werebeginningtoexercisesomeinfluenceonwomen'sdress.However,itwasnotreallyuntiltheFirstWorldWarthat"manyworkingwomen...embarkedonarevoultioninfashionthatgreatlyreducedtheweightandrestrictionsimposedonthembytheirclothing"[8].Somewomenworkinginfactoriesworetrousersandthebrassierebegangraduallytosupersedethecorset[9].Bytheearly1920s,whathadbeenawartimeexpedient-theneedtoeconomiseonmaterial-hadbecomeastatementoffreedombyyoungwomen,manifestedbyshorterhemlines（justabovethekneeby1925-6[10]）andboyishhairstyles,accompaniedbywhatRobertGravesandAlanHodgedescribedas"thenewfantasticdevelopmentofJazzmusic"[11].ThePenguinSocialHistoryofBritainnotedthat"bythe1920snewspaperswerefilledwithadvertisementsfor'lingerie'and'undies'whichwouldhavebeenclassedasindecentagenerationearlier"[12].Thus,inAgathaChristie'snovel,TheSevenDialsMystery（1929）,thearistocraticheroine,Lady"Bundle"Brent,woreonly"anegligibletrifle"underherdress;likemanyreallife"itgirls"ofherclass,shehadbeenfreedfromthe"genteelexpectations"ofearliergenerations[13].

Lookingbackatthisperiod,GravesandHodgenotedtheprotractedcoursethat"daringfemalefashionshadalwaystaken...frombrotheltostage,thenontoBohemia,toSociety,toSociety'smaids,tothemill-girlandlastlytothesuburbanwoman"[14].

The"Dorelia"look

AmongfemaleBohemiansintheearly20thcentury,the"gypsylook"wasarecurringtheme,popularisedby,amongothers,Dorothy"Dorelia"McNeill（1881-1969）,muse,loverandsecondwifeofthepainterAugustusJohn（1878-1961）,whosefullskirtsandbrightcoloursgaverisetotheso-called"Dorelialook"[15].KatherineEverett,néeOlive,aformerstudentoftheSladeSchoolofArtinLondon,hasdescribedMcNeil's"tightfitting,hand-sewn,canarycolouredbodiceaboveadarkgatheredflowingskirt,andherhairveryblackandgleaming,emphasiz[ing]thelongsilverearringswhichwereheronlyadornment"[16].

EverettrecalledalsotheJohns'woods"withwildcherrytreesinblossom,and...amodelwithflyingredhair,cladinwhite,beingchasedinandoutofthetreesbynudechildren".[17].Withsimilarlackofinhibition,asearlyas1907theAmericanheiressNatalieBarney（1875-1972）wasleadinglike-mindedwomeninsapphicdancesinherParisiangarden[18],photographsofwhichlooklittledifferentfromscenesatWoodstockin1969andother“pop”festivalsofthelate1960sandearly70s.

Bobbedhairandcross-genderstyles

Bycontrast,shortbobbedhairwasoftenaBohemiantrait[19],havingoriginatedinParisc.1909andbeenadoptedbystudentsattheSlade[20]severalyearsbeforeAmericanfilmactressessuchasColleenMooreandLouiseBrooksbecameassociatedwithitinthemid1920s.Thisstylewasplainlydiscernibleonawoodblockself-portraitof1916byDoraCarrington,whohadenteredtheSladein1910[21].Ashorterstyle,knownasthe"Etoncrop",becamepopulararound1926[22]:

onherarrivalinTilling（Rye）inEFBenson'scomicnovelMappandLucia（1931）,Luciadescribed"Quaint"Ireneas"agirlwithnohatandanEtoncrop.Shewasdressedinafisherman'sjerseyandknickerbockers".Formanyyearstriteassumptionswereoftenmadeaboutthesexualityofwomenwithcroppedhairstyles;anhistorianofthe1980swroteoftheGreenhamCommon"peacecamp"inEnglandthatit"broughtpublicawarenesstofeministseparationandeventolesbianism,hithertoseeninthemassmedia-whenacknowledgedatall-eitherintermsofEton-croppedandrogynyorofpornographicfantasy".[23].

Onesocialhistorianhasobservedthat"theinnocuouswoollenjersey,nowknown[inBritain]asthejumperorthepullover,wasthefirstitemofclothingtobecomeinterchangeablebetweenmenandwomenand,assuch,wasseenasadangeroussymptomofgenderconfusion"[24].Trousersforwomen,sometimeswornmannishlyasanexpressionofsexuality（asbyMarleneDietrichinthe1930film,Morocco）alsobecamepopularinthe1920sand30s,asdidaspectsofwhatmanyyearslaterwouldsometimesbereferredtoas"shabbychic".WinstonChurchill'snieceClarissawasamongthosewhoworeatailoredsuitinthelate1930s.[25]

Post-LiberationParis

CafédeFlore,Saint-Germain-des-Près,Paris:

hauntofpost-warbohemians

AftertheSecondWorldWarChristianDior's"NewLook",launchedinParisin1947,setthepatternforwomen'sfashiongenerallyuntilthe1960s.AmericaninfluenceshadbeendiscouragedduringtheNazioccupation,but,notablyintheformofbe-bopandothertypesofjazz,werestrongamongintellectualcafésocietyinthemidtolate1940s.[26]In1947,Samedi-Soirliftedthelidonwhatitcalledthe"troglodytesofSaint-Germain",[27]namelybohemiansoftheParisiandistrictofSaint-Germain-des-Prés,whoappearedtoclusteraroundexistentialistphilosopherJean-PaulSartre.TheseincludedRogerVadim（whomarriedandlaunchedthecareerofactressBrigitteBardotinthe1950s）,novelistBorisVian（sincedescribedas"theepitomeofLeftBankbohemia,standingatthecenterofitspostwarrehabilitation"[28]）andsingerJulietteGréco.

Incontrasttothe"NewLook"（whichitselfscandalisedsomeParisennes）,theclothesofthepost-warbohemianswerepredominantlyblack:

whenGrécofirstperformedoutsideSaint-Germainsheaffrontedsomeofheraudiencebywearing"blacktrousers,herbarefeetslippedintogoldensandals".[29]PerforminginLondonoverfiftyyearslater,Grécowasdescribedas"stillooz[ing]bohemianstyle".[30]

Saint-Germaininretrospect

Capturingthespiritofthetime,DavidProfumohaswrittenofhowhismother,theactressValerieHobson,wasentrancedbyVadim'sflatmate,thedirectorMarcAllégret,whileshewasfilmingBlancheFuryin1947:

Allégret'sapparentlybohemianlifestyleappealedsharplytoherromanticside...andsherevelledintheLeftBankmilieutowhichheintroducedherduringscriptdiscussionsinParis.ThereweremealswithAndréGide,JeanCocteauandthelong-leggedZiziJeanmaire.ForanattractiveBritishwomanwhofeltdeprivedofattention...thiswasanidealsituationforsomesortofreawakening.[31