攀冰技能大杂烩.docx

1、攀冰技能大杂烩Ice Climbing Skills Special 攀冰技能大杂烩（摘自）Ive been climbing ice for more than 30 years, and I still get chills before starting up a column of steep ice.Sure, modern ice tools and crampons, warm gloves, and easy-to-place screws have made ice climbing much easier than it used to be. These days, a

2、new ice climber can follow short sections of near-vertical ice on her first day out. A competent rock climber can lead lower-angle ice climbs halfway through his first season on ice, as long as he gets enough mileage. Yet for many climbers, truly vertical iceWI4+ and upremains frightening territory.

3、But it doesnt have to be that way. As with any other form of climbing, the keys to confident ice climbing are the right techniques, systematic practice, and a modest amount of training. We asked seven of North Americas most experienced ice climbers to share their hard-won wisdom. Put their tips to w

4、ork, and we guarantee youll be more comfortableand saferon steep ice. Dougald MacDonald从我开始攀冰到现在已经有三十年了，但我仍然在开始攀登一段陡峭的冰壁前感到很紧张。显而易见，现代化的冰镐和冰爪、保暖的手套和易于放置的冰锥都使得攀冰比之前容易很多。现如今，一个第一天攀冰的新人基本就已经可以跟攀一段较短的几近垂直的冰壁。一个具备一定能力的攀岩者，在积累了一定的攀冰里程数之后，就能在第一个冰季里先锋一段低角度冰坡。但对于很多攀冰者来说，真正的垂直冰壁WI4+或者更高的系数仍然令人心惊胆颤。但事情可以不这样。和其

5、他任何形式的攀登一样，自信攀冰的关键就在于正确的技巧、系统的练习、和大量的训练。我走访了7位北美最具攀冰经验的攀冰者来分享他们的智慧。把他们的窍门付诸实践，我们可以保证你将更加自信地更加安全地攀登陡峭的冰壁。Dougald MacDonald这七位攀冰者是：来自加拿大艾伯塔的Barry Blanchard和Will Gadd、犹他州的Caroline George、科罗拉多的Clint Cook、Jack Roberts和Steve House，以及新罕布什尔的Mark Synnot。（攀冰者照片略）Technique: Squat, Stand, SwingBy Will GaddTo le

6、ad vertical ice safely and efficiently (and not just get up it), you need to have toproped or followed at least 50 pitches of steep ice. There are no shortcuts to this process, no secret workouts or vitaminsjust action. Hang a toprope on a steep piece of ice and go at it for five or six big sessions

7、. Practice placing screws, reading the ice, and climbing with and without tools and/or crampons. Soon youll be champing at the bit to lead, rather than sketching up the crystal.Before starting a pitch, study the line to identify stemming grooves, ledges, and other stances to relax. I have yet to mee

8、t one waterfall ice climb where I couldnt get at least five or six totally no-hands rests in 200 feet.For individual tool and foot placements, always look for concave features or pockets. Anything that looks like the inside of a mixing bowl is relatively good to swing or kick at; anything that looks

9、 like the outside of a mixing bowl will break off and shatter. Popular ice pitches often are so picked out with holes that you barely need to swing; practice hooking your tools in other climbers placements. Fresh ice will require much more work.Climbing vertical ice is a repeated sequence of three b

10、asic movements: squat, stand, and swing.1. SQUATWith a solid tool placement overhead, keep your upper arm straight as you kick footholds for both feet at the same level. If your feet arent at the same horizontal position, the lower crampon may skate off the ice as you stand up. Note that you usually

11、 move your feet sideways and then up after each new tool placementI make about four foot moves for every tool placement. Your knees should end up slightly below your hips. Look carefully for the footholds, taking advantage of any ledges, dishes, or holes in the ice. If your feet are bad, youll grip

12、your tools too hard and get pumped. Eyeball your next placement while youre resting.TIP: A good practice drill is to follow a steep pitch without crampons. Its a great way to get you looking at your feet.2. STANDPlan where your next tool placement will go: about 12 to 24 inches above your current pl

13、acement, and roughly shoulder width away. Now stand up toward your upper tool. Almost all of the upward drive will come from your legs, like doing a squat in the gym; your arm only holds you into the wall. As youre about halfway through standing up, rip upward aggressively on the lower tool like a p

14、ump handle. The sharp top of the pick will cut the ice and release the placement easily.TIP: The primary reason people get stuck tools is placing them side by side. If one tool is lower, it will be easier to rip out of the ice as you stand up.3. SWINGKeep your elbow near your ear as you swing; this

15、will put the pick into the ice at full arms extension. Hook old placements or natural holes, or swing as often as it takes to get a really solid placement. Give the tool a sharp, downward tug; if it holds, it will stay put as long as you keep pulling down on it.Hang straight-armed from the new place

16、ment. You should be in a relaxed position, as if you were standing on a ladder with staggered hands and both feet on the same rung. If you feel off-balance or tense, its usually because your upper tool is out to one side or your feet are not level.TIP: As you swing, watch the pick to make sure the p

17、lacement is accurate, but then duck your head toward the ice as the pick connects. Inexperienced climbers look to the side; veterans let their helmet deal with the debris.Now, squat, stand, and swing again and repeat to the top.In this sequence, either your legs are bent or your upper (pulling) arm

18、is bent, but never both at the same time. Your natural inclination is to put a good tool into the ice, and then immediately pull up on it, bending your arm. Instead, move your feet and bend your knees while your arm is still straightthen bend your upper arm as you straighten your legs.TECHNIQUE PLUS

19、 Ice grades are close to meaningless. A WI6 in beat-out shape can be pretty easy, while a fresh WI4 can require really hard work to clear all the ice. The bulge atop a pillar or vertical wall is often the crux. Place a screw right before surmounting a bulge. Clear any snow off the top, then snap a t

20、ool into the ice, flicking your wrist to get a nice arc into your swing. Keeping your upper arm straight and your body away from the ice, move your feet up in small steps, about six inches at a time, until your knees are at or above waist level. Place your other tool beyond the firstnot side-by-side

21、and walk your feet onto the top of the bulge. Get rid of your fat ice climbing gloves they get wet inside and make your hands colder. Most Canmore ice climbers use light fleece gloves inside a shell, running through three to six pairs of liners in a day.攀冰技巧：下蹲、站起、挥镐由Will Gadd撰写 为了能够更安全有效地先锋垂直冰壁（不是指

22、简单地爬上去），你需要顶绳或跟攀至少50条绳距的陡峭冰壁。在这一过程中没有捷径，没有秘诀更没有神奇的药片只有亲身实践。在陡峭的冰壁上挂好顶绳，然后开始攀登，刷上五六遍。练习放置冰锥、读冰、无镐攀登和无爪攀登。很快，你就迫不及待地想尝试先锋了，而不是只在那里意淫啦。在开始攀登之前，要先研究一下线路，辨识出线路上凹入的地方、边沿或者其他可以休息的地方。如果一条200英尺（约60米）高的冰瀑，没有5-6个不用手就能休息的地方，我是怎么也攀登不了的。 对于每一镐，每一爪而言，最好的入点就是冰壁上的凹点或冰洞。任何向内凹陷的地方都是挥镐和踢爪的好地方；而任何向外凸出的地方都容易断裂和破碎。在常有人攀爬的

23、线路上都会有很多洞洞，这样你基本不需要挥镐；要练习在其他攀冰者打出的凹槽处钩挂冰镐。如果线路还没有人爬过，那就需要多费一些气力了。攀登垂直冰壁就是在往复地重复做三个基本动作：下蹲、站起、挥镐。1. 下蹲在超过头顶位置打下稳固的一镐后，保持持高镐的手臂伸直，然后将两个冰爪踢在同一水平线上。如果双脚不在同一水平位置上，位置较低的那只冰爪就可能在你站起的时候滑出来。注意，双脚开立两旁，然后在打入新的一镐之后再抬起我每打一镐会上四步。起脚抬膝时，膝盖要低于臀部高度。仔细观察脚点，要利用冰壁上的边沿、凹面或冰洞。如果脚点踩的不好，你就会过度抓握冰镐，导致胳膊酸胀。在休息的时候，一定要观察好下一个打镐的地

24、方。小窍门：不穿冰爪跟攀一段陡峭冰壁是一个好的训练，这样可以使攀冰者更注意观察脚点。2. 站起计划下一镐要入冰的位置：高于现在这镐12到24英尺，左右偏移1肩宽。现在，向高处那镐的方向站起。而差不多所有向上站起的力量都是来源自你的双腿（不是靠胳膊拉起），像是在健身房做蹲起一样；而你的胳膊在整个过程中只起到了让你借助拉起贴近墙壁的作用。一边站起，一边向上使劲提低处的那只镐，感觉就像是提起加油站的油枪一样。冰镐鹤嘴上方的形状将会切冰，方便取出打入的镐。小窍门：冰镐打入后卡住的主要原因是打镐的时候冰镐位置一左一右了。如果一支镐低，一支镐高，那在你站起的时候就很容易把冰镐提出来。3. 挥镐挥镐的时候，

25、尽量保持肘部贴近耳朵；这样将使你以一个完整臂展的长度挥镐入冰。通过钩挂以前的冰镐点、自然冰洞或挥镐，来尽可能多地取得稳固的入镐。要干脆地向下拉打入的镐；如果向下拉这一下没有问题，那么你在向下拉镐站起身的时候也会没有问题。再将新打入镐的那只胳膊伸直。这样你就应该又恢复到了一个放松的姿势，就像你站在梯子上，双手上下交错，双脚踩在同一横档上一样。如果你感到紧张或者不平衡，通常都是因为你高处的那支镐打得太靠外了，又或者是你的双腿没有站在同一水平上。小窍门：挥镐的时候，眼睛要看着鹤嘴，以确保入冰点精准，但在鹤嘴与冰壁接触的霎那要马上要向冰壁低头。没经验的攀冰者会看向一旁，而有经验的攀冰者会让他们的头盔来

26、处理碎冰。现在，再次重复下蹲，站起，挥镐然后一直重复这套动作，直到到达顶部。在这个过程中，要么你的双腿是弯的，要么握着高处的那支镐的胳膊是弯的，但永远不要两者同时弯曲。人自然的本能就是在冰上打稳固的一镐，然后马上曲臂拉起。但是，不该这样，要在你胳膊还是伸直的时候先屈膝上脚然后，再在你双腿站直的时候开始弯曲握着高处冰镐的那只胳膊。额外技巧 攀冰的等级划分几乎没有什么意义。一条成熟的WI6路线可能很简单，而一条无人攀登过的WI4，因为要清理线路而可能很难。 冰柱或垂直冰面上的鼓包经常是难点所在。在翻包之前一定要打一根冰锥。将包上的雪清理干净，然后抖手腕，挥镐入冰。握较高冰镐的那只胳膊要保持伸直，身

27、体离开冰壁，然后开始向上小步移脚，每步差不多就6英尺高，这样直到你的膝盖在腰的高度，或超出腰的高度。随后，在距第一镐较远的地方打下另一镐不要并排打镐再向上移步翻到鼓包的上面。扔掉肥大的攀冰手套肥大的攀冰手套会使里面潮湿，并让你的手变得更冷。很多Canmore地区的攀冰者都是在有防水功能的手套里面戴个轻薄的抓绒手套，一天换上3-6双。Training: Get SpecificBy Will GaddSteep ice climbing requires repetitive and surprisingly consistent movement from the bottom to the

28、top of a route. The ideal training would be to toprope steep ice over and over. But unless you live in Ouray or Canmore, most climbers have to come up with alternatives. Any training should mimic real ice movements as closely as possible. Before I climbed steep ice in Ouray for 24 hours straight las

29、t season, my warm-season training consisted primarily of rock climbing combined with thousands of air squat/stands and staggered-grip pull-ups.1. SQUAT/STANDThis exercise simulates the basic movement of steep ice climbing. Stand at the base of a stone wall, playground apparatus, a tree with low-hang

30、ing branches, or any other place you can hang a tool with the grip at about head height. With your toes against the wall, grasp the tool and drop into a squat so your kneecaps are at hip level. Now quickly stand up and reach high overhead with the other tool or your bare hand, holding the lock for a

31、 second or so. (See illustration above.) Drop back down and repeat. Do 25 of these movements with each hand pulling, and youve covered most of the movements required to climb a pitch of steep ice.If a set of 25 reps on one side is too hard, do sets of whatever number works to get to a total of 25. I

32、f this exercise feels too easy, youre not squatting deep enough or going fast enough through the movement. As you get stronger, you can add a backpack with weight to make the exercise harder.2. STAGGERED GRIP PULL-UPSIf you dont have a good place for squat/stands with an ice tool, supplement normal “air squats” (squats with no weight) with staggered-grip pull-ups. Hang one ice tool over a pull-up bar and grab the bar directly with your other hand, so your hands are staggered verti