服装纸样.docx

1、服装纸样Styles and Details of Fashion 服装款式分类及其细部1 Shirts/Blouses/男衬衫/女衬衫1.1 Shirt Details/男衬衫细部The shirt is inner wear or outer wear on the torso, was developed as a mens item.男衬衫作为男装单品的一种，可以穿在里面也可以穿在外面。Point/领尖, shoulder yoke/肩部育克, sleeve, sleeve placket/袖衩, cuff/袖克夫, vent。开衩, collarband/底领, collar, co

2、llar bottom, armhole, chest pocket, placket/门襟, front panel。前片, guntletbutton/袖衩扣, cuff button/袖口扣.1.2 Blouse detailsThe blouse is a soft and loose garment for the upper body which is worn by women together with skirts or trousers. In todays fashion, there is a large variety of shirt / blouse styles

3、. The different features of individual designs,e.g.the neckline and collar,length,cut,details and decoration,together with the material produce a particular style.女衬衫是一种柔软宽松的女上衣，可以配以短裙也可以配裤子。如今，男/女衬衫的款式有多种多样，特别的设计可以通过领口、领子、长度、裁剪、细部、装饰以及面料的变化创造出独特的款式。Gather抽褶, cuff, front panel, slit/开衩, collar, armh

4、ole, placket, sleeve, cuff button.1.3 Blouse design variation/女衬衫款式设计Tie neck/打结式The bands on the neckline are loosely knotted or tied into a bow.领口带子松松打结或系成蝴蝶结。Shirt style/男衬衫式The straight cut, cuffed sleeves and button placket are from mans shirt.直线裁剪，带袖口的袖子和门襟都借用了男衬衫的风格。Peplum/腰裙式Top with a short

5、 skirt (peplum) which is either sewn on or shaped.上衣设计有小短裙（腰裙），可以另缝一片也可以直接裁成。Blouson/短茄克式Ablouse with a full bodice and close fitting waistband.上衣宽松，下摆带有合体腰带的衬衫。Safari style/猎装式Breast pockets, epaulettes and rolled sleeves emphasize the casual style.胸袋、肩襻以及卷起的袖子强调出休闲的风格。Polo shirt/马球式衫式Acasual blous

6、e made of knitted fabric with an open collar and a short button placket.一种休闲风格衬衫，采用针织面料，开领，短开襟。Wrap- over/裹襟式The front section is closely overlapped and tied at the side.前面两片相互重叠，并在一侧打结Ruffle style Ablouse with ruffle on the front edges of neckline and collar.前襟领口及领子设计有菏xx的女衫。2 Jacket/外套The jacket i

7、s a basic item of outwear.Sometimes,it refers particularly to the tailored types in mens clothing. In a broad sense it includes the jumper ( blouson) as well, and is worn by men,woman and children. The distinguishing features between individual designs doe example, length,width, silhouettes cut and

8、details are determined by the style.外套是一种基本的外穿服装。有时特指精制男西服。广义来说，也包括休闲茄克，可以是男装、女装，也可以是童装。不同的款式在长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪方式以及细部方案各有独特之处。2.1 Jacket detailsGorge line/串口线,lapel/驳头,armhole,front dart,flap pocket/盖式口袋,front cut/前摆圆角,collar, shoulder line/肩线, sleeve top/袖山头, flower hole/插花孔, chest wilt pocket/前胸开缝口袋,

9、sleeve, sleeve button.2.2 Denim and jumperDouble stitch/双明线, shoulder yoke, bolt lock/锁缝, front pleat, shirt collar, set-in sleeve/装袖,western flap pocket/牛仔带盖口袋.Johnney collar,set-in sleeve,melton/麦尔登呢,leather sleeve/皮革袖,rib knit/罗纹袖口,monogram/角织字母, double piped pocket双滚边口袋, knit jersey/针织下摆, dot bu

10、tton./打点纽扣2.3 Jacket design variationTailored jacket/精制西服A dainty womens jacket, fitted at the waist with a classic lapel.一种精制女外衣，腰部合体，设计有经典的翻驳领。Cardigan style/无领开襟式Ahip length, shaped jacket with a long neck and no collar.xx臀围，低领口，无领的外衣。Short jacket/短外衣Ashort ,loose jacket which is also described a

11、s a jacket-top.短而宽松的外衣，也被描述为外衣上身。Chanel suit/xx式A collarless style jacket. It employs “Chanel tweed”and features hem-stitching.一种无领的上衣，采用夏奈尔粗花呢，逼供内以镶边为特征。Blazer/xxxx（休闲西装）Asporty elegant jacket with a shaped style, single or double breasted with lapels.精制优雅的休闲西装，单排扣或双排扣，带有翻驳领。Denim jacket/xx茄克A wais

12、t-length jumper made from denim. Originally this was a western workers garment.兰色斜纹布齐腰茄克，起源于西部工人工作服。3 Coats 大衣是指穿在最外面的服装。膝盖以上称短大衣，及膝长度称半长大衣，膝盖以下称长大衣。裙装是女性的基本外衣，狭义是指上下连为一体的女装。3.1Coat detailsEpaulette肩饰, storm flap披胸布, raglan sleeve插肩袖, D-ring D形环, caped back披肩, chinwarmer下巴罩布, flap and button pocket带

13、盖、带纽扣口袋, cuff strap袖口饰带.3.2 Coat design variation/大衣款式设计Sport coat/运动式Aknee length coat in a box-like cut with defined line.直筒型及膝长大衣，带有明线设计。Great coat/厚重长大衣A heavy, thick mens coat with a wide lapel and double breasted.厚重面料的男装大衣，宽翻驳领，通常为双排扣。Trench coat/战壕式An all-weather coat.It is worn belted.Epaule

14、ttes,shoulder pads and wrist straps are typical details.一种适合各种气候穿着的宽松大衣，系腰带，肩襻、垫肩和袖襻是此款风衣的典型细部。Redingote/细腰式A fitted womens coat with lapel and long vertical seams which widen to provide a flared.带有翻驳领的合体女大衣，纵向破缝，宽下摆。Wrap/围裹式 舒适宽松，用腰带简单系住。Raglan/插肩式A loose mens coat with raglan sleeves, often with c

15、oncealed buttons.男式宽松大衣，插肩袖，通常为暗扣门襟。Chesterfield/柴斯特外套（合体西服式）An elegant, fitted coat with a suit-like lapel pointing up wards and flap pockets.优雅合体型大衣，有西服式上翘的翻驳领和盖袋。3.3 Dress design variation/裙装设计变化Shirt dress/衬衫式This has a loose cut, cuffed sleeves and shirt collar. It is buttoned all the way throu

16、gh and is belted.宽松式裁剪，有袖口和男式衬衫领。前面通开扣，系腰带。Coat dress/大衣式This is usually made of strong material. It is always buttoned all the way down with a belt.通常采用坚固面料，前面通开扣，系腰带。Strapless/无带式The closely fitted, low-cut, sleeveless top is shaped and supported with boning. It sometimes also has thin straps.紧身合体

17、，无袖上衣部分采用鱼骨支撑，有时也会采用细带。Day dress/晨礼服An elegant,high neck,long sleeved dress, worn during the day or also evening to semiformal occasions.一种优雅的高领口长袖裙装，用于白天或晚上半正式场合。Princess/公主式Long vertical seams form a cloth-fitting top but a wide flared skirt.纵向长破缝，上衣部分紧身合体，裙子部分展开下摆。Empire /帝国式The high, gathered un

18、der-bust seam is characteristic of the empire style.帝国式特征表现在胸下带有抽褶的高腰线裙，通常称之为帝国式。Straight/直线式Aflared or pleated skirt is fitted to an elongated straight top.将阔摆或褶裥缝合到加长的直线裁剪的上衣上。Shift/衬衫式The shirt-like straight cut without a waist is characteristic of this dress.衬衫式直线裁剪、无腰线的连衣裙称为直筒式/4 Skirts/短裙Nowad

19、ays, the term skirt is used for an item of clothing worn from waist down and which is the basic element of womens clothing matching jacket with skirt makes a suit,or costume.Many styles of skirts are subject to changes in fashion.Other styles are considered classics, or timeless.Individual styles ar

20、e distinguished by length, width, silhouette, cut and details.短裙是指自腰而下的服装单品，是女装的一个基本元素。短裙与外套相配便可形成套装，也可以组成礼服。很多裙子的款式会随着流行而变化，也有些款式被看做经典而经久不衰。个种款式通过长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪结构以及细部的不同而有所区别。4.1 Skirt length/短裙的长度种类Micro超超短,mini超短,knee及膝,below the knee膝下,midi及小腿,maxi过小腿,ankle length及脚踝, floor length及地4.2 skirt desi

21、gn variation/短裙款式设计Narrow/一步裙The hem of the skirt is narrow than the width at the hips.裙子的下摆宽度比臀围窄。Draped/悬垂裙An elegant, sophisticated skirt with folds.带有柔软悬垂褶的优雅华美的裙子。Bell/xxThe circular or semi0circular cut produces a flared hem.圆形或半圆摆裁剪，形成展开的下摆。Paneled/多片裙This style is close at the hips with a wi

22、de hem obtained by shaped vertical panels.通过纵向分割线实现臀部合体，下摆展开。Gored /插片裙Either bell shaped panels or inserted additional material allow the hem to swing out.通过裁剪钟形裁片或插入镶片面料，使下摆展开。Tiered/塔裙The successive horizontal panels increase in width towards the hem.相继横向破缝，并逐层增加宽度。Yoke style/育克裙Astraight section

23、 is added from the waist to about hip height.在腰线至臀围附近加上的平直部分，成为育克。Frilled hemline/花边裙The ruffled hem edging can be either straight or flounced.下摆花边可以是直的，也可以是荷叶边。Pleats/褶裥裙Pleats allow freedom of movement whilst maintaing a slim silhouette.褶裥可以增加运动的自由度，同时还可以保持苗条的外型。Causal /休闲裙Big pocket and a button-

24、through front are typical details in a casual skirt.大口袋以及前面的通开扣是休闲裙典型的细部特征。5 Pants/裤子 以往裤子只属于男性。如今裤装已经普遍存在于妇女的衣橱里了。5.1 Pants details/裤子细部Belt loop裤襻, double pleated front双褶裥, center crease裤中线, inseam内缝, waist-band裤腰,side pocket侧袋, side seam侧缝, turn-up翻折裤脚5.2 Pants design variation/裤子款式设计Short/运动短裤Ve

25、ry short trousers. Hot pants are skintight womens shorts.非常短的裤子。很紧身的女短裤称为热裤。Bermuda shorts/百慕大短裤Wide shorts reaching to just above the knee.很宽大的短裤,xx正好在膝盖上面.Tapered/锥形裤The legs are significantly narrower at the bottom.裤腿非常小的裤子.Straight/直筒裤Narrow at the hips, legs the same width all the way down.臀部合体

26、,整个裤腿保持同一宽度.Jeans/牛仔裤Characteristics are bold top-stitched seams, studs and leather patches.其显著特点表现在粗双明线、装饰铆钉以及皮革商标贴片。Flared /喇叭裤Closely fitted at the top but legs wider at the foot than at the knee.上半部非常紧身，裤脚宽度宽于膝盖处。Harem pants/灯笼裤Very long, wide trousers with a tight cuff.带有紧裤脚的宽松长裤Culottes/裙裤Thes

27、e are calf length with a wide cut.xx小腿的宽腿裤。6 Suits/套装 自从19世纪末以来，将几件单品服装配在一起组成的套装，已经成为当今讲究男女士衣橱的一部分了。早些时候，传统套装的每件服装都是采用同种面料。今天非传统套装可以根据个人喜好来搭配。套装由上衣与裙子或裤子组成，有时也可能包括马甲。6.1 mens outfits/男套装 The causal, but smart jacket is usually of one color and has metal buttons. There are both single and double-brea

28、sted designs.这种休闲而优雅的套装通常采用单色面料以及金属扣，单排扣、双排扣均可。Business suit/办公套装Asingle0breasted suit,often with a waistcoat,or a double-breasted suit pointed lapels;usually made of dark, elegant fabric.单排扣西服套装通常配有西服背心，而双排扣套装则配以尖角翻驳领。常用优雅的深色面料。Leisure suit/休闲套装The blouson style jacket with a button placket and cuf

29、fed sleeved is generally chosen. They are often unlined.这种紧摆式套装带有前襟明贴边、带袖衩以及克夫袖口的袖子通常扣合。Traditional suits/传统套装The characteristics of the jacket reflect local or regional historical- culture traditional style. The illustration is based on alpine traditions.这类套装的特点是反映某一区域历史文化的传统风格。图中反映的是阿尔卑斯传统风格。6.2 W

30、omens outfits/女套装Tailored suit/精制西服套装The strong,masculine finish as well as high quality classic material are characteristics of the tailored suit.精制西服套装的特点是具有阳刚性，采用男装挺括的工艺处理及高档经典面料。Chanel suit/xx套装The generic name for a suit designed by Chanel, or a similar suit. It employs Chanel tweed and feature

31、s hem-stitching. Often made in collarless cardigan style.指夏奈尔品牌套装或类似款式的套装。采用夏奈尔粗呢，其主要特点是镶边、通常为无领开襟。Causal suits/休闲套装They generally have a less severe finish as well as popular technical details in the cut.Combinations of material and decoration are frequently used.The suits are usually described according to the design of the jacket of the style.通常较少挺括处理，裁剪方面采用一些流行的技术细节。有时会采用不同面料的组合和装饰。这类套装通常根据上衣款式或整体风格进行描述。Two-piece/两件套装裙Asuit in the style of a dress. The jacket dress consists of a skirt and soft jacket top.这是一种连衣裙式的套装。这种套装由短裙和柔性上衣构成。Coordinates/调和套装They are made out of