美国四分制和十分制中英文.docx

1、美国四分制和十分制中英文美國四分制和十分制 Fabric Inspection System.Fabric inspection and QC is one of the major areas in textile and garment sector. To establish a workable system for inspecting and evaluating piece goods shipments is vital. No single accepted system for measuring the quality of fabrics, but some of th

2、e more commonly used systems are described in this section. We recommend a minimum of 10% inspection of fabrics prior to spreading. Some are intending to inspect the goods while spreading. However this is unrealistic and the spreaders are not the QC. 1-Ten-Point SystemIn 1955, the Ten-Point System f

3、or piece goods evaluation was approved and adopted by the Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of Textiles. This system assigns penalty points to each defect, depending on its length. The Ten-Point System is somewhat complicated because points-per-length vary for warp and filling d

4、efects. Table blow shows a breakdown of the points:Table 1 - Ten-Point SystemWarp Defects Penalty Filling Defects Penalty10-36 inches 10 points Full width 10 points5-10 inches 5 points 5 inches - 1/2 the width of goods 5 points1-5 inches 3 points 1-5 inches 3 pointsUp to 1 inch 1 point Under the Ten

5、-Point System, a piece is graded a first if the total penalty points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a second if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece. 2- Four-Point SystemThe Four-Point System has received the widest acceptance in both the te

6、xtile and needle trades because it is the most lenient. It is simple and easy to understand. Since it is the most widely used?2.1- Amount to Inspect - Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls in the shipment.2.2- Selection of Rolls Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll per col

7、or must be inspected, then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received.2-3 Defect Classification The Four-Point System classifies defects as shown in Table 2:Table 2 Four-Point SystemSize of Defect Penalty3 inches or less 1 pointOver 3, but not over 6 in

8、ches 2 pointsOver 6, but not over 9 inches 3 pointsOver 9 inches 4 points A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard.The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. (A major defect is any defect that, if found in a finished garment, wou

9、ld classify that garment as a second.) No penalty points are recorded or assigned for minor defects.Major defects are classified as follows:- Major woven fabric defects are slubs, hole, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, wrong yarn.- Major knitted fabric defects are mixe

10、d yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub, hole, and press off.- Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading.- Suppliers using the Four-Point System should obtain examples of major defects and minor defects, and make t

11、hem available as visual aids for the Inspectors.2.4- Acceptance Point - Count Most suppliers use 40 points per 100 yards as the acceptable defect rate. However, you should establish your acceptance point-count based on your product and its end use.2.5- Acceptance Criteria - There are two methods of

12、determining whether a shipment is acceptable. You must decide which method will fit your product. The methods available are as follows:One method of acceptance uses a projection of total defects based on the number of defects found during inspection of a sample. Here is an example using this method:

13、Total yardage received: 2,400 yardsAcceptance point-count: 40 per 100 yardsTotal yards inspected: 240 yardsTotal penalty points found in the sample inspection: 148 points148 / 240 X 100 = 61.7 points per 100 yards. (Allowance is 40 points per 100 yards.)Action: Shipment would fail.A second method is

14、 acceptance of 10% bad rolls. Here is an example of the method:Total yardage received: 2,400 yardsAcceptance point count: 40 per 100 yardsTotal yards inspected: 7 (10 % rolls)Number of rolls rejected: 22 / 7 = 29% rolls rejected.Action: As 29% of rolls inspected were rejected, the shipment would be

15、held for a decision.-You must decide whether to reject the entire shipment and return it to the piece goods source, or whether to 100% inspect the balance of the rolls. Management must make this decision; do not leave such decisions to the Inspector or Quality Control Supervisor. If you need product

16、ion from the good rolls, it may be to your advantage to 100% inspect.2.6- Inspection Procedure This procedure shows the steps necessary to ensure an effective piece goods quality control program:* Determine the amount to inspect,* Select the rolls to inspect,* Put the rolls on the inspection machine

17、 or other viewing device,Cut off a 6-inch piece across the width of the goods. Mark this piece so that the Inspector will know the right and left sides of the fabric. Use the strip to check for shading side-to-side and end-to-end by checking it at least once against the middle of the roll and once a

18、t the other end, Inspect for visual defects at a speed slow enough to find the defects, Check that the roll contains the yardage as stated by the piece goods source, Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric. Predetermine the tolerance you will allow; this will depend on your product. Example: Widt

19、h of Fabric Tolerance(In Inches) (In Inches)45-50 150-60 1 1/2Weigh the roll of fabric to determine yield: Yards/Weight = YieldExample: Weight of roll = 35 poundsYards in roll = 59.5 yards59.5 / 35 = 1.70 yield.If major defects are not cut out of the fabric by the Inspector, mark them on the selvage

20、 (for example with colored threads). Should you later want to review the defects with the piece goods representative, the defects can be easily located on the inspection machine. In addition, the defects can be easily noted by the Spreader so that they can be cut out.Record the defects on a report f

21、orm. (See the suggested Piece Goods Quality Control Inspection Report form on the following page. Please note that this is only a suggested report form. Since report forms can require a variety of detailed information, make sure that your report form contains all the information you need. The origin

22、al version of our suggested form is enclosed at the back of this manual for duplication purposes.)Do not require data on the form that you will not use. Recording data is a labor cost, so keep your form simple.2.7- Possible Considerations for Rejection In addition to excessive defects, the following

23、 are common reasons for rejecting fabric rolls:No roll with a length of less than 25 yards should be accepted as first quality. You may want to specify this on your purchase order.No roll containing more than one splice should be accepted as first quality.No roll containing a splice part less than X

24、X* yards should be accepted as first quality. (You may not want to receive rolls with a splice near the beginning or end of the roll.)美国纺织四分制与十分制检验标准分制 （中文版） 一、AATCC检验及抽样标准：1 抽样数量：总码数的平方根乘以八.2抽箱数：总箱数的平方根.二四分制检验：1扣分扣分扣分以上扣分疵点的评分原则：，同一码中所有经纬向的疵点扣分不超过4分，破洞不问大小扣分，布边一英寸内不扣分，连续性疵点须开裁或降等外品E ，任何大于针孔的洞均扣4分。F

25、，无论经向或纬向，无论何病疵，都以看得见为原则，并按疵点评分给予正确扣分G，除了特殊规定（比如涂层上胶布），通常只需检验布的正面。等级计算方法有两种：，以线长度为基准计算：扣分不超过分为级（为可接受范围） 扣分超过分为级（为不可接受范围）.，以平方码为基准计算： 每百平方码四十分(为可接受范围)总疵点评分3600 被查布匹实际长度实际布匹门幅(英寸)拒收标准：，一匹布疵点评分超过四十分，整匹大货的标准疵点超过分，疵点连续出现在三米或以上，不论疵点评分多少三、十分制检验：1经向疵点扣分法:1”以下扣1分 1”5”扣3分5”10”扣5分10”36”之间扣10分纬向扣分法:1”以下扣1分 1”5”扣

26、3分5”半门幅之间扣5分半门幅以上上扣10分 疵点的评分原则：A：同一码中所有经纬向的疵点扣分不超过10分，破洞不问大小扣10分，布边半英寸内不扣分，连续性疵点须开裁或降等外品E ，任何大于针孔的洞均扣10分。F，无论经向或纬向，无论何病疵，都以看得见为原则，并按疵点评分给予正确扣分G，除了特殊规定（比如涂层上胶布），通常只需检验布的正面。四，等级计算方法：1可接受范围=总分数小于总码数2.百码扣分不得超过一百分面料检验_美标四分制（中文版）布匹的检验方法常见的是四分制评分法。在这个四分制评分法中，对于任何单一疵点的最高评分为四分。无论布匹存在多少疵点，对其进行的每直线码数(Linear ya

27、rd)疵点评分都不得超过四分。布 匹 检 验 标 准布匹的检验方法常见的是四分制评分法。在这个四分制评分法中，对于任何单一疵点的最高评分为四分。无论布匹存在多少疵点，对其进行的每直线码数(Linear yard)疵点评分都不得超过四分。对于经纬和其他方向的疵点将按以下标准评定疵点分数：一分: 疵点长度为3寸或低于3 寸两分: 疵点长度大于3寸小于6 寸三分: 疵点长度大于6寸小于9 寸四分: 疵点长度大于9寸对于严重的疵点，每码疵点将被评为四分。例如: 无论直径大小，所有的洞眼都将被评为四分。对于连续出现的疵点，如: 横档、边至边色差、窄封或不规则布宽、折痕、染色不均匀等的布匹，每码疵点应被评

28、为四分。每码疵点的评分不得超过四分。评分的计算不同布种的接受水平抽样程序评定布匹等级的其他考虑因素评分的计算: 原则上每卷布经检查后，便可将所得的分数加起来。然后按接受水平来评定等级，但由于不同的布封便须有不同的接受水平，所以，若用以下的公式计算出每卷布匹在每100平方码的分数，而只须制订一在100平方码下的指定分数，便能对不同布封布匹作出等级的评定。(总分数x 36 x 100) / (受检码数 x 可裁剪的布匹宽度) = 每100平方码的分数-不同布种的接受水平 不同类型的布匹被分为以下四大类。超过指定分数的单卷布匹应被定为二等品。如果整批布匹的平均评分超过了指定的分数水平，则该批布匹应被

29、视为未通过检验。梭织布匹类型 布匹种类 单卷 整批 1 全人造布匹，聚酯/尼龙/醋酸纤维制品衬衫衣料纺人造纤维织物精纺毛料 20点/100平方码 16点/100平方码 2 粗斜纹棉布帆布府绸/牛津条纹或方格纹棉布衬衫衣料纺人造纤维织物毛织品条纹或格子花纹的布/染成的靛青纱所有专用布匹，提花织物/多比灯芯绒/天鹅绒/伸展粗斜纹棉布/人造布匹/混纺 28点/100平方码 20点/100平方码 3 亚麻布薄细棉布 40点/100平方码 32点/100平方码 4 多皮奥尼丝绸/轻丝绸 50点/100平方码 40点/100平方码 针织布匹类型 布匹种类 单卷 整批 1 全人造布匹，聚脂/尼龙/醋酸纤维制

30、品人造丝精纺毛料混纺丝绸 20点/100平方码 16点/100平方码 2 全专业布匹，提花织物/多比灯芯绒纺人造纤维织物毛纺品染成的靛青纱丝绒/斯潘德克斯 25点/100平方码 20点/100平方码 3 基本针织布匹（精梳棉布/混纺棉布） 30点/100平方码 25点/100平方码 4 基本针织布匹（经梳毛机梳理过的棉布) 40点/100平方码 32点/100平方码 -抽样程序 选择待检卷完全是随机挑选。纺织厂需要在一批布匹中最少有80%的卷已打包时，向检验员出示货物装包单。检验员将从中挑选受检卷。一旦检验员选定待检卷，不得再对待检卷数或已被挑选受检的卷数进行任何调整。检验期间，除了录和核对颜色之外，不得从任何卷中截取任何码数的布匹。对接受检验的所有卷布匹都定等级，评定疵点分数。-