1、Ancient Chinese Articles of Clothing 中国古代服装 China,known as a land of dresses”,has a long history in the development of its clothing culture.Dresses in different periods reflect,to a certain extent,the situation of the politics,economy,military affairs,religions,and the civil customs of the specific
2、historical stages.中国,被称为“衣服土地”的地方,在服装文化发展上有着悠久的历史。不同时期的衣服在一定程度上反映了政治、经济、军事、宗教和特定的历史阶段的民间习俗的情况。Chinese clothing in the past dynasties can be roughly(粗略的)divided into the following categories:1.clothing of the remote times;2.that of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties;3.that of the Qin and Han Dynasties;4.th
3、at of the Wei,Jin,and Northern and Southern Dynasties;5.that of the Sui,Tang,and the Five Dynasties;that of the Song Dynasty;6.that of the Liao,Jin,and Yuan Dynasties;7.that of the Ming Dynasty;8.that of the Qing Dynasty;9.and that of modern times.春秋战国时期深衣和胡服开始推广。深衣(dark clothing)将过去上下不相连的衣裳连属在一起,所以
4、叫深衣。它的下摆不开衩口,而是将衣襟接长,向后拥掩,即所谓“续衽钩边”。胡服(Hu Dress)主要指衣裤式的服 装,尤以着长裤为 特点,是中国北方草原民族的服装。为骑马方便,他们多穿较窄的上衣、长裤和靴。无袖、短袖、长袖之衣,与腰中间有线道横截或无线道横截之袍,皆可称为裤褶,因而今所论之半臂,其为胡服。Qin&HanQin&HanQin and Han秦朝秦朝时他们穿的半长衣所交掩之曲裾虽较浅,但仍为深衣之属,其下身着长裤,腰系施钩之革带。这种装束在西汉时仍广泛流行,裤也逐渐向全社会普及。冠制的确立是在汉代实现的。汉代汉代的冠则主要从属于服制,是身份、官职以至官阶的表征。身份低微的人,只能戴
5、帻而不能戴冠。冠本为加于发髻上的一个发罩,并不覆盖整个头顶。帻则像一顶便帽。汉代妇女一般将头发向后梳成下垂的圆髻,名椎髻。常着深衣,女式深衣之华丽者名衣,它的曲裾不但在下身缠绕好些层,且在其斜幅上缀以三角形物及长飘带。In Qin&Han Dynasty also dark clothing,trousers.Crown system is established in the Han Dynasty.Han women generally will be dressing the hair back hair bun hanging round.And Han Fu is very beau
6、tiful and popular.HanfuHanfu(汉服)(汉服)has many patterns.has many patterns.ZhongyiZhongyi(中衣)(中衣)is is usually worn inside,which like a shirt.Wearing in usually worn inside,which like a shirt.Wearing in the house as pajamas(the house as pajamas(睡衣)睡衣),too.Usually,it,too.Usually,its white s white or oth
7、er plain colour.or other plain colour.RuqunRuqun(襦裙)(襦裙)is worn by women.When its collar is worn by women.When its collar likes the letter likes the letter“y y”,we can called it,we can called it Jiaolingruqun(Jiaolingruqun(交领襦裙交领襦裙).If its collar likes the).If its collar likes the numbernumber“1111”
8、,we can called it duijinruqun,we can called it duijinruqun(对襟襦(对襟襦裙裙).When they are classified).When they are classified(分类)分类)by its height by its height of the skirtof the skirt,we can called them qiyaoruqunwe can called them qiyaoruqun(齐腰(齐腰襦裙)襦裙)Which waistband Which waistband(腰带)(腰带)is on the i
9、s on the waist.Or qixiongruqunwaist.Or qixiongruqun(齐胸襦裙)(齐胸襦裙)Which Which waistband is above the chest.waistband is above the chest.褙子。对襟,两侧从腋下起不缝合,多罩在其他衣服外面穿着。在宋、明朝时最为盛行。a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front.(对襟)Girdlingtunic.(束腰)wide sleeves.(衣袖宽大)Tang DynastyTang DynastyThe
10、dress style in Tang Dynasty is very open.Womens dress and personal adornments(装饰)of the Tang Dynasty outstanding in Chinas history.The clothing materials were exquisite(精致的,优美的),the structure(结构)was natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments were splendid.Though the forms of garments were still the
11、 continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty,they were influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions.Bold 大胆 Colorful 绚丽多彩 Many styles 款式多样 Sexy 性感 宋代服装大体沿袭唐制。这时的幞头(Pu Tou)内衬木骨、外罩漆纱,宋人称之为“幞头帽子”,可随意脱戴,这时,皇帝和高官戴的展脚幞头,两脚向两侧平直伸出,可达数尺。身份低的公差、仆役等,则多戴无脚幞头。宋代妇女也穿裙和衫,这时的衫子多为对襟,盖在裙外。裙较窄,多施细摺,
12、宋代妇女在裙内着裤。起于五代时的缠足,至北宋晚期已逐渐流行。Men:Wear a soft cloth of surrounding the head.Women:Skirt、shirt、Off two lapel,buttons in the middle of the chest.Inside the pants in the skirt.Foot bindingSlaveOfficerEmperorCivilianQueen、PrincessEmperorEmpressWeddingWear a soft cloth ofsurrounding the head(幞头)with dark
13、,so called Wushamao(乌纱帽).And the civilian cant wear it.Also draw some designs in the chest and back.Different designs of different grade Tonsure、Change clothes.(剃发易服)Manchu customs(满族习俗)Dressed braiding,braid hanging behind,wearing thin horse-hoof-shaped cuffArrow clothing,tight socks,dark boots.(剃发留辫,辫垂脑后,穿瘦削的马蹄袖箭衣、紧袜、深统靴。)(in the Qing Dynasty)official cap showing various ranks by button of precious stone on top(清代区别官员等级的帽饰)Women wear:Cheongsam,Manchu flag costume (旗袍)Flowerpot shoes(花盆底鞋)Hairstyle like a great wing.(“两把头”、“大拉翅”)dragon robe 龙袍常服丧服Pajamas(睡衣)(睡衣)Thank you!
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