服装设计外文翻译文献服装设计专业文献翻译.docx

服装设计外文翻译文献服装设计专业文献翻译.docx

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服装设计外文翻译文献服装设计专业文献翻译

文献信息：

文献标题：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption（可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计）

国外作者：

KirsiNiinimäki

文献出处：

《NordicTextileJournal》，2012，1:

60-69.

字数统计：

英文3104单词，17881字符；中文5737汉字

外文文献：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption

AbstractThisarticlepresentsastudythatinvestigatesproductsatisfactioninthecontextofclothing.Thepaperfurthermorepresentssuggestionsonhowthisknowledgecanbeusedtocreateproactivefashiondesignforsustainableconsumption.Oneofthemainchallengesintoday’sconsumersocietyishowtodesignproductsthatencourageconsumerstoengageinmoreenvironmentallyresponsiblebehaviour,sustainableconsumption.Thispaperopensthediscussiononhowtochangecurrentunsustainableconsumptionbehaviourrelatedtoclothingthroughavisionary,far-sighteddesignapproach.Designerscancreatefuture-orientedsustainabledesignsthatcantransformconsumptionpatternstowardsmoresustainableones.Designforsustainabilitycanthusbearedirectivepracticethataimsforsustainableconsumption,andthewaysinwhichfashiondesigncanbeaproactiveprocesswiththisaimwillbedescribed.

Keywords:

proactivedesign,sustainabledesign,sustainableconsumption,emotionalsatisfaction,PSS.

Introduction

Productsconfigureconsumerneedsandusepatterns;hence,designcanbesaidtobe“practice-oriented”,creatingcertaineverydaypracticesandconsumptionbehaviour（Shoveetal.2007,134–136）.Currentindustrialdesignandmass-manufacturingsystemsstimulateconsumerismandtheproductionofdisposableproducts（Walker2007,51）.Fastchangingtrendsleadtoconsumers’unsustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Tocreateanew,sustainablebalancebetweendesign,manufacturingandconsumption,alternativewaystocreateproductsarerequiredtodrivemoresustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Therefore,designersshouldevaluatehoweachdesigndecisionaffectsaconsumer’sconsumptionpatterns.Understoodinthisway,sustainabledesigncanbearedirectiveoraproactivepracticethataimsforsustainablepracticesinconsumption（Fry2009,53）.

Higherproductionvolumesandsimultaneousgrowingconsumptionhavecausedanincreaseinmaterialconsumption（Throne-Holstetal.2007）.Ever-changingfashiontrends,affordableproductpricesandlow-qualityproductscauseconsumerstoengageinunsustainableconsumptionbehaviour,suchasimpulsepurchases,overconsumption,shortusetimeandprematuredisposalofproducts.Theincreaseinthepurchaseofshort-lifespanproductsresultsinanotableincreaseinwaste.Currently,approximately70percentofdisposedclothingandtextilesendupinlandfills,andinmanyWesterncountriesclothingandtextilewasteisestimatedtobethefastestgrowingwastestream（Fletcher2008,98）.Consumersdiscardgamentsnotonlybecausetheyarewornoutbutalsobecausetheyactivelyseeknovelty.Nevertheless,productdurabilityandlongtermuseareprerequisitesforsustainableconsumption:

i.e.extendingthelifespanofproductsisessentialwhenthegoalissustainableconsumption（Cooper2005）.Importantly,however,consumersassociatedurabilitywithhighqualityandnotwithenvironmentalimpact.

Emotionslieatthecentreofhumanlife,andtheyinfluencemostofourbehaviours,motivationsandthoughtprocesses（Desmet2009,379）.Emotionsalsoplayastrongroleinconsumption.Theinterplaybetweenwants,needs,values,attitudesandexperiencesisemotionallymeaningfulforacontemporaryconsumer.Clothingandfashionitemsbelongtothecategoryofself-expressiveproducts,andwithsuchproducts,consumption-relatedemotionsareimportanttotheconsumer.AsRichins（2009）argued,theseconsumptionemotionsareimportantelementsincontemporarysocietyandespeciallyafterthepurchaseevent.Thepurchasesituationbecomesastrongpositiveexperienceforaconsumer,butitisveryshortterminnatureandhasnoconnectiontotheexperienceofdeepersatisfactionorperson–productattachment（ibid）.Throughanewpurchaseevent,theconsumercanagainexperienceexcitement,enjoyment,joyandpleasure,atleastmomentarily.

Fromanenvironmentalpointofview,studyingconsumptionpatternsandthemeaningsofconsumptionisimportantwhensustainedpositiveemotionsinperson–productrelationshipsaredesiredorsolutionsaresoughttoreplacematerialisticconsumptionwithotherpositiveemotionalstates.Thedesignprocessshouldfocusonsustainableconsumersatisfactionwithaproductorwiththeperson–productattachmentprocess.Moreover,anewkindofproductservicesystem（PSS）shouldbedevelopedthataimstoprolongtheenjoyableusetimeoftheproduct.APSSstrategycanalsooffertheconsumernewemotionalexperiences,whichcanpostponethedisposaloftheproduct;PSSthinkingcantherebyaimtoavoidanewgarmentpurchase,whichisanopportunitytodecreasematerialisticconsumption.

SustainableSatisfactionwithClothing

Ifcurrentunsustainableconsumptionpatternsaretobetransformedintomoresustainableones,thewaysinwhichdesigncanoffersustainablesatisfactionmustbeinvestigated.Togainadeeperunderstandingoftheopportunitiestodeliversatisfactionbydesignandhowtheenjoyableuseofgarmentscanbeextended,thesatisfactionprocessmustfirstbeexplained.

AccordingtoSwanandCombs（1976）,theperformanceofclothingcanbeseparatedintoinstrumentalperformance（physicalproperties）andexpressiveperformance.Expressiveperformanceislinkedtoaconsumer’spsychologicalresponsetothegarment,suchastheexperienceofbeauty.Instrumentalrequirements（e.g.qualityexpectations）mustbesatisfiedfirst.Nevertheless,onlyfulfillinginstrumentalrequirementswillnotresultinsatisfaction.Thereforeclothingmustalsomeetconsumers’emotionalneedsifitistodeliversatisfaction（SwanandCombs1976）.

Hencegoodintrinsicqualityisoptimalforensuringconsumersatisfactionandtoguaranteethelongevityofclothing.Highqualitymeansdurablematerialsandhighmanufacturingquality.Theageingprocessofapleasant,aestheticgarmentrequiresnotonlymaintaininghighintrinsicqualitybutalsothedesignofamoreclassicalstyleanduseofdurablematerials.Sometextilematerialslookoldafterashortusetime.Thematerialmightexperiencepillingormaylookoldafterafewwashes.Garmentsneedingfrequentwashingmaylookoldratherquickly;therefore,recognisingmaterialsthatageinamoreaestheticallypleasingmannerisimportant.Studieshaveshown（Niinimäki2010）thatconsumersexperiencee.g.woolandrealleathertoageinanaestheticallypleasantway.Consumersreportthatwithhighqualitywooltheageingprocessdoesnotshowasobviouslyandinleathertheageingprocessisexperiencedasanattractivetemporaldimension（ibid.）.

Consumersrespectaestheticattributesinthelong-termuseofclothing,andaestheticattributescorrespondtoexpressiveperformanceinclothingsatisfaction.Accordingly,expressiveperformanceaffectsthepsychologicalresponsetoclothing.Theaestheticattributesthatcorrelatetothelongevityofclothingaregoodfit,personalcut,nicecoloursandcomfortablematerials,aswellasaclassiclook（seeTable1）.Garmenttactilityisimportanttothewearerandapleasanttactileexperienceduringtheusesituationisoneattributeforenjoyablelong-termuseofclothing.

TableI:

Attributesthatenablelongevityinclothing

Theattributesthatenablelongevityinclothingarethefollowing:

Quality:

Durablematerials

Durabilityinuse

Durabilityinlaundering

Highmanufacturingquality

Functionality:

Easymaintenance

Suitabilityintheusesituation（physiologicalandpsychologicalsuitability）

Satisfyinguseexperience

Aestheticattributes:

Beauty,style,colour,fit

Expressivebeautyaboveaverage

Tactileexperience

Comfortablematerials

Values:

Product’svalueshavetomeetconsumer’spersonalvalues

Notonlyquality,functionalityandaestheticsareimportantattributes;thevaluesbehindtheproductarealsoimportanttoconsumersatisfaction.Clothingchoicesmustconnectstronglywiththewearer’sself-image,identityandvalues.WangandWallendorf（2006）havearguedthatconsumerswithhighmaterialisticvaluesseeknoveltyandevaluatetheirpossessionsmoreoftenthanconsumerswithlowermaterialisticvalues.Theyalsohighlightthatmaterialisticconsumershavelessappreciationfordeeperperson–productrelationshipsthatdevelopduringlongerusesituations.Consumers’materialisticvaluesmayalsoconnectwithsocialstatus-relatedelementsingarmentsandpossessions.Consumerswithlowermaterialisticvaluesmayhavegreaterappreciationforthepersonalmeaningsattributabletotheproductthatemergeduringlong-termuse（Wang&Wallendorf2006）.Consumerswithhighenvironmentalandethicalinterestsplacehighimportanceonbeingabletofindenvironmentalvaluebehindaproduct.Theseconsumersrespectcredencequalityattributes–localandethicalproduction,eco-materialsandlonggarmentlifespans–andtheywanttoseetheseattributesandenvironmentalvaluesintheproductstheypurchase.Thevalueaspectismostimportantandconsumers’valueexpectationsshouldbefulfilledtocreatedeepproductsatisfaction（Niinimäki2011）.

FashionDesignforSustainableSatisfaction

Howcanadesigneroffersustainablesatisfactiontotheconsumerandhowcans/heproposeaprolongedusetimeoftheproducttotheconsumer?

Firstlyidentifyingtheattributesassociatedwithsatisfactionandincludingtheminthedesignisthemostimportantstrategy.Secondlyidentifyingthedeterminantsthatleadtodissatisfactionhelpsthedesignertoavoidtheseelementsindesignandconcentrateondesignforsu