服装设计外文翻译文献.docx

服装设计外文翻译文献.docx

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文献信息：

文献标题：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption（可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计）

国外作者：

KirsiNiinimäki

文献出处：

《NordicTextileJournal》，2012，1:

60-69.字数统计：

英文3104单词，17881字符；中文5737汉字

外文文献：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption

AbstractThisarticlepresentsastudythatinvestigatesproductsatisfactioninthecontextofclothing.Thepaperfurthermorepresentssuggestionsonhowthisknowledgecanbeusedtocreateproactivefashiondesignforsustainableconsumption.Oneofthemainchallengesintoday’sconsumersocietyishowtodesignproductsthatencourageconsumerstoengageinmoreenvironmentallyresponsiblebehaviour,sustainableconsumption.Thispaperopensthediscussiononhowtochangecurrentunsustainableconsumptionbehaviourrelatedtoclothingthroughavisionary,far-sighteddesignapproach.Designerscancreatefuture-orientedsustainabledesignsthatcantransformconsumptionpatternstowardsmoresustainableones.Designforsustainabilitycanthusbearedirectivepracticethataimsforsustainableconsumption,andthewaysinwhichfashiondesigncanbeaproactiveprocesswiththisaimwillbedescribed.

Keywords:

proactivedesign,sustainabledesign,sustainableconsumption,

emotionalsatisfaction,PSS.

Introduction

Productsconfigureconsumerneedsandusepatterns;hence,designcanbesaidtobe“practice-oriented”,creatingcertaineverydaypracticesandconsumptionbehaviour（Shoveetal.2007,134–136）.Currentindustrialdesignand

mass-manufacturingsystemsstimulateconsumerismandtheproductionofdisposableproducts（Walker2007,51）.Fastchangingtrendsleadtoconsumers’unsustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Tocreateanew,sustainablebalancebetweendesign,manufacturingandconsumption,alternativewaystocreateproductsarerequiredtodrivemoresustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Therefore,designersshouldevaluatehoweachdesigndecisionaffectsaconsumer’sconsumptionpatterns.Understoodinthisway,sustainabledesigncanbearedirectiveoraproactivepracticethataimsforsustainablepracticesinconsumption（Fry2009,53）.

Higherproductionvolumesandsimultaneousgrowingconsumptionhavecausedanincreaseinmaterialconsumption（Throne-Holstetal.2007）.Ever-changingfashiontrends,affordableproductpricesandlow-qualityproductscauseconsumerstoengageinunsustainableconsumptionbehaviour,suchasimpulsepurchases,overconsumption,shortusetimeandprematuredisposalofproducts.Theincreaseinthepurchaseofshort-lifespanproductsresultsinanotableincreaseinwaste.Currently,approximately70percentofdisposedclothingandtextilesendupinlandfills,andinmanyWesterncountriesclothingandtextilewasteisestimatedtobethefastestgrowingwastestream（Fletcher2008,98）.Consumersdiscardgamentsnotonlybecausetheyarewornoutbutalsobecausetheyactivelyseeknovelty.Nevertheless,productdurabilityandlongtermuseareprerequisitesforsustainableconsumption:

i.e.extendingthelifespanofproductsisessentialwhenthegoalissustainableconsumption（Cooper2005）.Importantly,however,consumersassociatedurabilitywithhighqualityandnotwithenvironmentalimpact.

Emotionslieatthecentreofhumanlife,andtheyinfluencemostofourbehaviours,motivationsandthoughtprocesses（Desmet2009,379）.Emotionsalsoplayastrongroleinconsumption.Theinterplaybetweenwants,needs,values,attitudesandexperiencesisemotionallymeaningfulforacontemporaryconsumer.Clothingandfashionitemsbelongtothecategoryofself-expressiveproducts,andwithsuchproducts,consumption-relatedemotionsareimportanttotheconsumer.AsRichins（2009）argued,theseconsumptionemotionsareimportantelementsincontemporarysocietyandespeciallyafterthepurchaseevent.Thepurchasesituation

becomesastrongpositiveexperienceforaconsumer,butitisveryshortterminnatureandhasnoconnectiontotheexperienceofdeepersatisfactionorperson–productattachment（ibid）.Throughanewpurchaseevent,theconsumercanagain

experienceexcitement,enjoyment,joyandpleasure,atleastmomentarily.

Fromanenvironmentalpointofview,studyingconsumptionpatternsandthemeaningsofconsumptionisimportantwhensustainedpositiveemotionsinperson–

productrelationshipsaredesiredorsolutionsaresoughttoreplacematerialisticconsumptionwithotherpositiveemotionalstates.Thedesignprocessshouldfocusonsustainableconsumersatisfactionwithaproductorwiththeperson–product

attachmentprocess.Moreover,anewkindofproductservicesystem（PSS）shouldbe

developedthataimstoprolongtheenjoyableusetimeoftheproduct.APSSstrategycanalsooffertheconsumernewemotionalexperiences,whichcanpostponethedisposaloftheproduct;PSSthinkingcantherebyaimtoavoidanewgarmentpurchase,whichisanop