服装设计中的创意性灵感外文文献翻译Word格式.docx
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原文
Thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign
FatmaMete
Abstract:
Purpose-Toassessthecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesign.Itaimstoanalysesimple,generalaccountsofobserveddesignbehaviourandearlystagesoftheclothingdesignprocess,whatisthenatureofdesigninspiration,howsourcesofinspirationaregatheredandhowtheyaffectthecreativityandoriginalityinclothingdesign.
Design/methodology/approach-Aprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudieslookingatready-to-wearclothingdesignhasbeenundertaken;
insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricalapproachusedethnographicobservationalmethods,whichiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneeded,asinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.
Findings-Identifiesthemajortypesofideasourcesinclothingdesignandprovidesinformationabouteachsource.Recognisesthatthesesourcesofinspirationhelpdesignerstocreatedesignelementsandprinciplesofindividualdesigns.Inordertofosteroriginality,sourcesofinspirationplayapowerfulrolethroughoutthecreativestageofdesignprocess,andalsointheearlystagesoffashionresearchandstrategiccollectionplanning.
Originality/value-Thispaperhighlightstheroleofsourcesofinspirationanditseffectincreativityandoriginalityintheclothingdesignprocess.Offerspracticalhelptoclothingdesignersanddesign-ledclothingcompanies.
Keywords:
Fashiondesign,Clothing,Creativethinking,Designcalculations,Designmanagement
Introduction
Sourcesofinspirationanditspersonalinterpretation,visuallyandtechnically,playanimportantroleinthedesignprocess,inincreasingcreativity.Clothingdesignstudiesandthecreativeroleofdesigninspiration,duringtheearlyinformalandactualclothingdesignprocessesisopentoscientificinvestigationlikeaestheticallydrivendesignsinotherdomains.
Studyingcreativefashiondesignasprocessandproductisseenmoreproblematicthanotherdesign-ledindustries,astheinteractionbetweenthedesignelementsandprinciples,materialproperties,adaptationandmodificationofdesigninspirationarecomplex.Clothingdesign,asavarietyofaestheticandfunctionaldesignprocesses,sharesmanycharacteristicsofengineeringdesignprocess.
Researchandobservationarecriticallyimportantinthefashionbusiness.Byresearchingandobserving,designersgatherbackgroundinformationfordesign,includingstudyingcurrentandfuturefashiontrendsandtrytopredictwhatthemajorityoftheircustomerswillwantintheforeseeablefuture.Inordertokeepupwiththechangingworldoffashion,fashionawarenessshouldbecomesecondnaturetoeveryclothingdesigner.
Designandclothingasavisualandtactilesensorydesign
Itiswellknownthatdesignistwothings:
processandproduct,asverbandnoun.Asdesignproblemsolutionprocess,itisresearching,settingthesourceofinspiration,planning,organizingtomeetagoal,carryingoutaccordingtoaparticularpurposeandcreating.Asproductitistheendresult,anintendedarrangementthatistheoutcomeofthatprocessorplan.
Clothingisanexampleofapplieddesign,eventhemostexciting,originalideamustshowawarenessofitspracticalpurposeandenvironment.Werealisethatsomeartispure,"
artforart'
ssake"
butmostcreationsinthedailyworldareforapracticalpurposeanduse.Designasprocessisplanningtomeetagoal,andthusappliestoeverythingintentionallycreatedforapurpose.Thestepsandorderoftheprocessareessentiallythesameregardlessoftheendproduct.Thesestepsareverysimilartomanagementasaplanningprocess.
Designasmanmadeproductandservicefallsintotwomajorcategories:
sensoryandbehavioural.Sensorydesignisperceivedthroughthesenses,andisclassifiedasvisual,auditory,olfactory,tactileandgustatory.Behaviouraldesignisplannedaction.Manyproducts,however,includeaspectsofboth,becausedesignmaybeperceivedthroughthesensesandtheninterpretedbehaviourally.Afashionshow,forexample,includebothsensoryandbehaviouraldesigns.
Researchmethodologyandfindings
Theimportanceofsourceofinspirationandtheirroleincreativeclothingdesignhasbeenlittleunderstoodand,therefore,rarelyreceivedattentioninthisindustry.[6],[7],[8]EckertandStacey(1998,2000,2003)studiedknitweardesigncase,whichsharesmanycharacteristicsofcomplexengineeringprojectsandasanexampleof"
practicaldesign"
inafastmovingandhighlycompetitivemanufacturingindustry.Theirworkincludedalargeethnographicstudyoftheknitwearindustry,whichproducedadetaileddesignprocessmodelandananalysisofthecausesofcommunicationproblemswithindesignteams.[15]Mä
kirinne-Croftetal.(1996)triedtoexplainthefashiondesignprocessintermsofquantummechanicsandpsychoanalysisandseedesigncreativityastheultimatemystery;
theirdescriptionofthedesignprocessissimplistic.
Theauthorhasundertakenaprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudies,basedonobservationandinterviews,lookingatready-to-wear(RTW)clothingdesign;
insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricapproachcombinesethnographicobservationalmethodswiththeknowledgeanalysistechniquesofartificialintelligence.Itiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneededasinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.
Inthisresearch,thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesignbynoviceandexpertclothingdesignerswasassessedthroughempiricalresearch.Assubjects,16talentedclothingdesigners,11university-levelfashiondesignstudentsinFashionDesignDepartmentatDokuzEylulUniversityandfiveprofessionaldesignersparticipatedintheexperimentcarriedoutinthisresearch.Thefirstgroupofsubjectsincludedadvancedfashiondesignstudents,seventalentedstudentsselectedfromthethirdandfourthyearofundergraduatestudies,andalsofourstudentsofpostgraduatestudies,whoalsoworksasafreelanceorparttimeassistantdesignersintheclothingindustry.Thesecondgroupwascomposedoffiveprofessionaldesignerswithaminimumof5yearsofexperienceinclothingindustry.
Sourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign
Wheredoesthefashiondesignergetideasandinspirationfornewstyles?
Theansweriseverywhereandeverything.Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationforagarment.Throughtelevision,thedesignerexperiencesallthewondersoftheentertainmentworld.Infilms,thedesignerisexposedtotheinfluencesofallthearts,andlifestylesthroughouttheworld.Becauseconsumersareexposedtomoviesthroughinternationaldistribution,filmsprimetheiraudiencestoacceptnewfashionsinspiredbythecostumes.Museumexhibits,artshows,worldhappenings,expositions,theatres,music,danceandworldtravelareallsourcesofdesigninspirationtofashiondesigners.Thefashionsofthepastarealsoarichsourceofdesigninspiration.Whilealwaysalerttothenewandexciting,fashiondesignersneverlosesightofthepast,theyuseoldthingsinnewways.
Asstatedtheinspirationforagarmentwithinacollectionorforanentirecollectioncancomefromaninfinitevarietyofsources.Sourcesofinspirationareoftenlinkedtothesocial"
spiritofthetimes"
alsocalledthe"
zeitgeist"
.Understandingthestateofcurrentfashionandsearchingforideasandsourcesofinspirationinvolveslookingatartobjectsandbooks,goingontripstoplaceslikeParisandMilan,visitingmuseums,watchingpeopleonstreetsandgoingoncountrywalks.Designersaremostcreativewhentheyaredirectlyexposedtothesourcesofideas.
Ontheotherhand,ithasbeenobservedinthefashionindustrythattherearetwofundamentalapproachesinthecreativeclothingdesignprocesses:
(1)material,thusfabric,inspiredclothingdesignprocess;
and
(2)conceptualclothingdesignprocess,suchasseveralthemesoriginatedfromtheuniverseofarts,natureorproducts.
Itisknownthatthehigh-fashion"
name"
designerstypicallydevelopaconcept,alsocalledtheme,fortheircollectioninordertobemorecreativeandoriginal.
Themajortypesofideasourcesindesign-ledindustriesarepreviousproducts,artifacts,naturalobjectsandphenomena.Incaseofclothingdesign,garments,fabricsandtrimsaspreviousproducts,playanimportantroleinsourcesofinspiration.Although,thereisabroadrecognitionthatmuchofthedesignproceedsbymodificationofpreviousideas,incaseoffabricinspiredclothingdesign,designerssearchfornewformsandstyleswithnewlydevelopedorinventedmaterials.Forexample,thedevelopmentofelasthenfabrics,suchasLycra,inspireddesignerstofigure-huggingsilhouettes.
Conclusions
Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationinfashiondesign.Designideasdonotsimplymaterializeoutofthinair.First,thedesignerdoescarefulresearch,butwhatmakesadesigner'
scollectionspecialandoriginalishisorheruniqueinterpretationofdesignsources.Therefore,inordertobemorecreativeandoriginalthes