服装设计中的创意性灵感外文文献翻译Word格式.docx

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服装设计中的创意性灵感外文文献翻译Word格式.docx

278-293.

原文

Thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign

FatmaMete

Abstract:

Purpose-Toassessthecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesign.Itaimstoanalysesimple,generalaccountsofobserveddesignbehaviourandearlystagesoftheclothingdesignprocess,whatisthenatureofdesigninspiration,howsourcesofinspirationaregatheredandhowtheyaffectthecreativityandoriginalityinclothingdesign.

Design/methodology/approach-Aprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudieslookingatready-to-wearclothingdesignhasbeenundertaken;

insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricalapproachusedethnographicobservationalmethods,whichiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneeded,asinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.

Findings-Identifiesthemajortypesofideasourcesinclothingdesignandprovidesinformationabouteachsource.Recognisesthatthesesourcesofinspirationhelpdesignerstocreatedesignelementsandprinciplesofindividualdesigns.Inordertofosteroriginality,sourcesofinspirationplayapowerfulrolethroughoutthecreativestageofdesignprocess,andalsointheearlystagesoffashionresearchandstrategiccollectionplanning.

Originality/value-Thispaperhighlightstheroleofsourcesofinspirationanditseffectincreativityandoriginalityintheclothingdesignprocess.Offerspracticalhelptoclothingdesignersanddesign-ledclothingcompanies.

Keywords:

Fashiondesign,Clothing,Creativethinking,Designcalculations,Designmanagement

Introduction

Sourcesofinspirationanditspersonalinterpretation,visuallyandtechnically,playanimportantroleinthedesignprocess,inincreasingcreativity.Clothingdesignstudiesandthecreativeroleofdesigninspiration,duringtheearlyinformalandactualclothingdesignprocessesisopentoscientificinvestigationlikeaestheticallydrivendesignsinotherdomains.

Studyingcreativefashiondesignasprocessandproductisseenmoreproblematicthanotherdesign-ledindustries,astheinteractionbetweenthedesignelementsandprinciples,materialproperties,adaptationandmodificationofdesigninspirationarecomplex.Clothingdesign,asavarietyofaestheticandfunctionaldesignprocesses,sharesmanycharacteristicsofengineeringdesignprocess.

Researchandobservationarecriticallyimportantinthefashionbusiness.Byresearchingandobserving,designersgatherbackgroundinformationfordesign,includingstudyingcurrentandfuturefashiontrendsandtrytopredictwhatthemajorityoftheircustomerswillwantintheforeseeablefuture.Inordertokeepupwiththechangingworldoffashion,fashionawarenessshouldbecomesecondnaturetoeveryclothingdesigner.

Designandclothingasavisualandtactilesensorydesign

Itiswellknownthatdesignistwothings:

processandproduct,asverbandnoun.Asdesignproblemsolutionprocess,itisresearching,settingthesourceofinspiration,planning,organizingtomeetagoal,carryingoutaccordingtoaparticularpurposeandcreating.Asproductitistheendresult,anintendedarrangementthatistheoutcomeofthatprocessorplan.

Clothingisanexampleofapplieddesign,eventhemostexciting,originalideamustshowawarenessofitspracticalpurposeandenvironment.Werealisethatsomeartispure,"

artforart'

ssake"

butmostcreationsinthedailyworldareforapracticalpurposeanduse.Designasprocessisplanningtomeetagoal,andthusappliestoeverythingintentionallycreatedforapurpose.Thestepsandorderoftheprocessareessentiallythesameregardlessoftheendproduct.Thesestepsareverysimilartomanagementasaplanningprocess.

Designasmanmadeproductandservicefallsintotwomajorcategories:

sensoryandbehavioural.Sensorydesignisperceivedthroughthesenses,andisclassifiedasvisual,auditory,olfactory,tactileandgustatory.Behaviouraldesignisplannedaction.Manyproducts,however,includeaspectsofboth,becausedesignmaybeperceivedthroughthesensesandtheninterpretedbehaviourally.Afashionshow,forexample,includebothsensoryandbehaviouraldesigns.

Researchmethodologyandfindings

Theimportanceofsourceofinspirationandtheirroleincreativeclothingdesignhasbeenlittleunderstoodand,therefore,rarelyreceivedattentioninthisindustry.[6],[7],[8]EckertandStacey(1998,2000,2003)studiedknitweardesigncase,whichsharesmanycharacteristicsofcomplexengineeringprojectsandasanexampleof"

practicaldesign"

inafastmovingandhighlycompetitivemanufacturingindustry.Theirworkincludedalargeethnographicstudyoftheknitwearindustry,whichproducedadetaileddesignprocessmodelandananalysisofthecausesofcommunicationproblemswithindesignteams.[15]Mä

kirinne-Croftetal.(1996)triedtoexplainthefashiondesignprocessintermsofquantummechanicsandpsychoanalysisandseedesigncreativityastheultimatemystery;

theirdescriptionofthedesignprocessissimplistic.

Theauthorhasundertakenaprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudies,basedonobservationandinterviews,lookingatready-to-wear(RTW)clothingdesign;

insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricapproachcombinesethnographicobservationalmethodswiththeknowledgeanalysistechniquesofartificialintelligence.Itiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneededasinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.

Inthisresearch,thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesignbynoviceandexpertclothingdesignerswasassessedthroughempiricalresearch.Assubjects,16talentedclothingdesigners,11university-levelfashiondesignstudentsinFashionDesignDepartmentatDokuzEylulUniversityandfiveprofessionaldesignersparticipatedintheexperimentcarriedoutinthisresearch.Thefirstgroupofsubjectsincludedadvancedfashiondesignstudents,seventalentedstudentsselectedfromthethirdandfourthyearofundergraduatestudies,andalsofourstudentsofpostgraduatestudies,whoalsoworksasafreelanceorparttimeassistantdesignersintheclothingindustry.Thesecondgroupwascomposedoffiveprofessionaldesignerswithaminimumof5yearsofexperienceinclothingindustry.

Sourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign

Wheredoesthefashiondesignergetideasandinspirationfornewstyles?

Theansweriseverywhereandeverything.Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationforagarment.Throughtelevision,thedesignerexperiencesallthewondersoftheentertainmentworld.Infilms,thedesignerisexposedtotheinfluencesofallthearts,andlifestylesthroughouttheworld.Becauseconsumersareexposedtomoviesthroughinternationaldistribution,filmsprimetheiraudiencestoacceptnewfashionsinspiredbythecostumes.Museumexhibits,artshows,worldhappenings,expositions,theatres,music,danceandworldtravelareallsourcesofdesigninspirationtofashiondesigners.Thefashionsofthepastarealsoarichsourceofdesigninspiration.Whilealwaysalerttothenewandexciting,fashiondesignersneverlosesightofthepast,theyuseoldthingsinnewways.

Asstatedtheinspirationforagarmentwithinacollectionorforanentirecollectioncancomefromaninfinitevarietyofsources.Sourcesofinspirationareoftenlinkedtothesocial"

spiritofthetimes"

alsocalledthe"

zeitgeist"

.Understandingthestateofcurrentfashionandsearchingforideasandsourcesofinspirationinvolveslookingatartobjectsandbooks,goingontripstoplaceslikeParisandMilan,visitingmuseums,watchingpeopleonstreetsandgoingoncountrywalks.Designersaremostcreativewhentheyaredirectlyexposedtothesourcesofideas.

Ontheotherhand,ithasbeenobservedinthefashionindustrythattherearetwofundamentalapproachesinthecreativeclothingdesignprocesses:

(1)material,thusfabric,inspiredclothingdesignprocess;

and

(2)conceptualclothingdesignprocess,suchasseveralthemesoriginatedfromtheuniverseofarts,natureorproducts.

Itisknownthatthehigh-fashion"

name"

designerstypicallydevelopaconcept,alsocalledtheme,fortheircollectioninordertobemorecreativeandoriginal.

Themajortypesofideasourcesindesign-ledindustriesarepreviousproducts,artifacts,naturalobjectsandphenomena.Incaseofclothingdesign,garments,fabricsandtrimsaspreviousproducts,playanimportantroleinsourcesofinspiration.Although,thereisabroadrecognitionthatmuchofthedesignproceedsbymodificationofpreviousideas,incaseoffabricinspiredclothingdesign,designerssearchfornewformsandstyleswithnewlydevelopedorinventedmaterials.Forexample,thedevelopmentofelasthenfabrics,suchasLycra,inspireddesignerstofigure-huggingsilhouettes.

Conclusions

Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationinfashiondesign.Designideasdonotsimplymaterializeoutofthinair.First,thedesignerdoescarefulresearch,butwhatmakesadesigner'

scollectionspecialandoriginalishisorheruniqueinterpretationofdesignsources.Therefore,inordertobemorecreativeandoriginalthes

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