leather.docx

leather.docx

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leather

Soleleather/underleather鞋底革

shoeliningleather鞋里革

garmentleather服装革

bagleather包革

shoeupperleather鞋面革

shoesplitleather剖层革

patentupperleather漆革

cleaningleather擦拭革

correctgrainleather修面革

upholstery/furnitureleather家具革

carupholsteryleather汽车坐垫革

shrunkleather摔纹革

pearlleather珠光革

bacteriostats抑菌剂

halophilicbacteria嗜盐菌

authraxbacteria碳蛆菌

bacillus杆菌

firmness紧实性

flexibility耐折性

fullness丰满性

softness柔软性

elasticity弹性

strectchy延伸性

freearticle免税商品

handlefeeling平感

aldehyde醛

formaldehyde甲醛

tannigagent鞣剂

skinsandhides原料皮

primeral名词原料时代

private私人的

beforetannage鞣制前flaying剥皮curing防腐washing浸水，回水liming浸灰unhairing脱毛fleshing去肉deliming脱灰bating软化pickling浸酸

tannage鞣制thehidesandskinsarenowtannedbywhichevermethodisappropriate,usingvegetabletans鞣剂orchrome铬鞣oroil,etc.

aftertannageheavyleathers,eg..sole（orbottom）leather

washingorscouring冲洗settingout静置oiling加油脂stuffing填充drying干燥rolling滚压

lightleather，egshoeupperleather

shavingorsplitting剖层toachieveuniformthicknesswashingtofreefromsurpluschromesalts多余的铬盐neutralizing中和dyeing染色fatliquoring乳化加脂settingout静置drying干燥staking拉软finishingorseasoning涂饰glazing抛光plating熨平

therearemanyvariants变化onthissimpleoutline,thechoiceandcontrolofwhichdeterminethecharacteroftheleathermade.Theirstudyformsthebasisofleathertechnology.Theprocessesarenowconsideredingreatdetail详细介绍withemphasis复杂onhowtheymaybemodified调整toproduceleathersfordifferentrequirements.

Pickling浸酸

Thismethodisnearlyalwaysusedforhidesorskinsaftertheyhavebeenunhaired脱毛ordewoolled脱毛,limedandfleshed,particularlyinthecaseofsheepskins,wherethemorevaluablewoolisremovedandtheremainingskinisthenpickled浸酸anddrained控水readyformarketing.Inthecaseofwoolledskinstheremovalofthewoolisoftenknownasfellmongering.

Afterunhairing,liming,anddelimingtheskinsarewashedandthenpaddledorgentlydrummedina12%solutionofsalt盐溶液-121b.per10gallonscoldwater（10-21C）towhichisadded1%or1.2%ofsulphuricacid硫酸,previouslydiluted稀释withwater（calculatedonthevolumeofwaterused）.Forprecautions预防tobetakenindilutingtheacidseepage68.thisiscontinuedfor2ormorehours,untilthesaltandacidhavethoroughlypenetrated完全的渗透theskins.Whenthisstagehasbeenreached,thesaltandacidity酸度oftheliquor溶液shouldbecheckedtoensurethatthesaltconcentrationisstillmorethan10%andtheacidconcentrationstillabove0.8%.inthecaseofsheepskins,thegoodsaredrained,madeintobundlesofsix,packedin“stain-free”,cleanoakbarrels橡胶桶andcooperedup密封topreventdrying.

Thesalthasthesamepreservative防腐保存actionasinsalting,andtheacidity,ifbelowpH2.0,stopsnearlyallknownputrefyingbacteria所知的所有细菌,sothattheskinsmaybestoredforseveralmonths,providedtheyarekeptcool.Attemperaturesover32C,theacidity酸度maycausedamagetotheskin.

Pickles,whilststoppingbacterialdamage,donotstopmould霉菌growths,whichcausegreen,blackorwhitediscolouration色斑andalsocausealossofgloss光泽度orfaceonthefinishedleather.Thisisduetoattackonthegrainstructureandoftenshowsitselfinunevendyeing不均匀的染色.Topreventthisgrowth,anti-moulds抗霉菌orfungicides杀菌maybeaddedtothepickleliquor浸酸液atabout1partpre1000partsofliquor.Acommononeispara-nitrophenol对硝基苯酚.Thismaygiveskinayellowcolourandcanbereplacedbysodiumtrichlophenate三氯酚钠.

Iftheproportions比例ofacidorsaltarewrongtheycancausedamagetotheskin,andhence因此theymustbecarefullycontrolled.Thepickedskinshouldnotbeallowedtodryout,asdryintgmaycausetheacidtoweakentheskinandthecrystallization结晶ofsalton,orin,thegrainmaycausedamagetothegrain粒面（“saltsprout”盐的析出）.

Soaking（浸水）

Skinstore（皮张储存）

Hidesorskins原料革mayenterthetanneryinthevariousstatesofcure防腐状态,andthehideorskinstoremustbekeptinacool,dryatmosphereandprecautionsshouldbetakenagainstinsectattack.Dry-saltedhidesrequiresimilarconditions,butshouldbekeptseparatefromdriedhides.

Vegetabletanned植鞣cruststock（eastindiatannages）shouldbedriedbyairingoffifnecessarytopreventmouldgrowth,andprotectedfromsunlight,whichcausesdarkstains黑斑;orironcontamination铁污染.Wetbluechrome蓝湿革tannedstockisusuallypackedinairtightbags气密袋,topreventdrying,whichwouldmakewettingback回水andsubsequent后期的processesdifficult.

Wet-saltedhidesandskinsalsoneedacoolstore,preferablyofuniformtemperature,e.g.10℃,freefromdraughtsandwithasuitablyconstructedconcretefloor水泥地板togivegooddrainage拉水andeaseofcleaning.Asinanyotherstore,recordsshouldbekeptofallsuppliesanddeliveries,sortingsgradesandweights.Infectionbymouldsorbacterial腐败putrefactionshouldbepreventedathoroughclean-outandtheapplicationofasuitablefungicide杀菌剂orbactericide杀菌剂.

Beforeprocessing,thehidesorskins,preferablyofuniformsizeorweight,aremadeupintosuitablysizedpacksandtheweightandnumberofeachpacknoted.

water

tanneriesmayusealargeamountofwaterandiftheydosotheywillbefacedwithproblemsindisposing安置oftheeffluent污水（ordirtywater）.Mostriverauthorities当局demandthateffluent污水dischargedintoriversshallbeofacertainstandardofpurity排放andmostlocalauthoritieshavesimilarstandardsormakeextrachargestoacceptveryimpure不纯的waterintotheirdrainage排放systems.Particularattentionshouldbegiventoavoidingwaterwasteorunnecessarypollution.

Tannerywatermaybehadfrommainssupply主管道,fromwells井水,rivers,etc.itisseldompure微小纯净的.Riverorsurfacewatermaybebadlyinfectedwithputrefyingbacteria真菌，细菌,mouldsporesordirt,whichmayinfectstonerocks,etc.itmaycontainthedissolvedsaltsofcalciumandmagnesiumbicarbonate碳酸氢镁（temporaryhardness）orcalciumandmagnesiumchloride氯化钙,andsulphates硫酸盐（permanenthardness固定的硬度）pluscarbonicacid石碳酸苯酚.Hardness硬度ismeasuredintermsofpartsCaCO3,per70,000waterparts.Hardnessfiguresbelow10℃arenormallyacceptable.

P.K°ofhardness=1gainCaCO3p.gallon粒面格令重量单位water1/70,000

German德国°ofhardness=1pt.CaOp.100,000pt.water.

French法国°ofhardness=1pt.CaCO3p.100,000pt.water

Calciumsalts钙盐mayscale水脂boiler,slowdown减缓soakingprocesses工序,precipitatelime使···下降,vegetabletans,dyesandfatliquors.Thesignificanceofthisisthattheseprecipitatescalciumcarbonate碳酸钙fromlimeliquors灰斑—causinglimeblast.Temporaryhardwaterismildly温和的alkaline碱性andmayreduceacidityinwashingprocesses.Permutitwatersofteningprocessesremovecalciumsaltsbutthealkalinity碱度mayberetainedassodiumsalts.Lime/sodasoftening软化processesremovebothtypesbutrequirecarefulcontrol.

Theprocessofsoaking浸水操作

Thefirstprocessconsistsoftheskinsinwater,theaimbeingtoallowthemtore-absorbwaterwhichmayhavebeenlostafterflaying,inthecuringprocessorduringtransport.Thisabsorbedwaterre-hydrates重新水化anydriedinter-fibrillary纤维间质等protein,loosening松散itscementing粘结actiononthefibres.Thecollagenfibres胶原纤维andkeratincells酶蛋白ofhairandepidermis表皮alsotakeupwaterandbecomemoreflaccid柔软andflexible耐折的.Thelengthoftimeandtheconditionsrequireddependonthesizeandthicknessoftheskin,thecuringmethodusedandoftenthegreasiness油脂oftheskin.

Wet-saltedbidesmaybesoakedbylayingorhanginginpitsfullofwater（10~16℃）for8-20hours.Theamountofwaterusedis5or6timestheweightofthehides.Thesaltislargelysoakedout洗出ofthehidesalongwith伴随somebloodanddirt血渍,whilethehidesbecomecleanerandsofter,andincreaseinweightowingtotheabsorptionofwater.Satisfactorysoakingisjudgedbyfeel,cleanlinessandtheabsenceofsalt盐的缺失thelattermaybedeterminedinthejuicesqueezed挤，压outoftheskin,usingapocketrefractometer折射计，屈光计.

Theprocessisnotsimple,becauseputrefyingbacteria腐败细菌canthrive繁殖assoonasthereisasurplus多余ofwaterorthecuringagentiswashedout.Thus,beforethehideissuitablyflaccid松弛的,itmaybecomeputrefiedandthesoakliquor浸水液stink臭offensively讨厌的.Whilstthisisunpleasant,italsoindicates指示thatthebacteriaaredissolving溶解thehideaway,andtheresultant假装leathermayshowtenderordamagedgrain,looseness,andlackofsolidity坚硬程度,particularlyinthebellyorthinnerareas.

Oneoftheearliestsignsofthisdamageisthatthehair“slips”（i.e.whenthehideishandled,patchesofhairandepidermisslipoffthegrain）.Inthelaterstages,holesmayactuallyappear.However,itisessentialtosoaktheskinswell,ifoneistoobtainuniformlytannedanddressed整饰leatherofgoodstrengthandflexibility.

Thereisadangerthatiftoomuchalkalioracidisused.Thesurfacefibresoftheskinwillrapidlyabsorbitandswellsomuchthattheydistort扭曲，弯曲thesurfaceoftheskinandblockup堵塞theinter-fibrillarvspaces,preventingthewaterfromreachingtheinside.Thiswillgivealeathershowingloosegrain.

Sodium钠calcium钙magnesium镁chrome铬aluminum铝titanium钛ziconium锆potassium钾carbon碳hydrogen氢oxygen氧nitrogen氮surphur硫phosphorus磷chlorine氯silicon硅

Enzymeunhairing酶法脱毛

Thesweatingprocessfordewoollingsheepskinsisessentially实际anuncontrolledenzymeprocess.Enzymesareproteins,derivedfrom来自animals,plants,moulds,bacteria,andactlikecatalysts催化剂inchemicalreactions.（catalystsaresubstanceswhichpromotechemicalre-actionsbutremainunchanged.）ingeneral,enzymesarehighlyspecific物质专一性intheiraction;agivenenzymewillcatalyseagivenreactionbutnoother